Soldering.. damage..

[JThunderz]

Ok, so I think I screwed up the Cyclowiz modchip install. Here's a pic:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v660/Jeff_PKLight/IMG_0591.jpg


Somehow, the chip flashes when I turn on the Wii. In the above pic, I used the alternate G and V points, but I don't think that's where my problem is. Here's the points I soldered to on the Wii:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v660/Jeff_PKLight/IMG_0594.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v660/Jeff_PKLight/IMG_0595.jpg

Things when terribly wrong when I soldered to the Wii. First off, I'm not sure if the Alternate G and V connects to the right points. Second, I think I bridged point A. Lastly, I accidently broke off point B. I was going to trace the point to the bigger chip with all the IC legs, but the points are too many to solder to.

So that's really the big question I'm concerned about now... where do I solder point B to and how? And what about A, G, and V?

I'm scared I've done something wrong, but any help? Thanks, I appreciate it.

(sorry for the blurry pics)

EDIT:
Here's a full pic of you need it:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v660/Jeff_PKLight/IMG_0596.jpg

[kylesoldname92]

dude u should have gone w/ the quick solder method!!! i did that today and it went PERFECT lol except shakes but yeah that would have done you much better prolly....

[whackawookie]

theres nothing right with that install. If I were you I'd just take the system to somebody who can fix it for you because even if we gave you advice I wouldn't recommend you tackle the job by yourself.

[Nicotine]

wow

whats with everyone on here posting their fuckups, and all their stripped ends are like half an inch long??

those stripped ends should be TINY. you should be able to bury the end in the solder with little to NO exposure of the stripped wire. you are running a huge risk of shorting out on other points..clean it up.

[JThunderz]

Thanks for the replies.

@ kylesoldname92: Yeah, I should've done the quick solder method. There's so much pressure saying that the wiring method is best, but I guess I shouldn't have listened.

@ whackawookie: Do you know of anything I can do to fix it? I'm not sure if anyone around my area is an expert solderer.

Also, would it be too late now to use a desoldering braid on all the points and quick solder the Cyclowiz? Then again, not really sure what to do with the B point.

[whackawookie]

i wouldnt use solder braid if i were you. You need something that isn't strong and that you dont have to use force. A solder pump but not the force one, the small bulb pump that way when solder starts to flow you can just pump it over the spot, thats if your trying to remove solder though. Next do what nicotine says and shorten those ends. One by one take the wire off, clip the ends to a small length, very small. After you do that you should tin the end with a small amount of solder, very small. After that reattach the wires. You shouldnt see much wire once your wire is attach, just enough so that the wire can be pushed down to the board without ripping it up. Honestly though I think you should get a spare electronic component you have somewhere thats trashed and just practice. Figure out how much solder you need to make a connection watch how solder flows to where you have the iron and how long you have to hold the wire so that it dries.

[thecheekymonkey]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v660/Jeff_PKLight/IMG_0591.jpg


I think its safe to say USE FLUX! ;) sorry.

as others have said, those `ends` remind me of the 70`s when everyone had long hair, they desperatly need cutting down. you should have no more than 1mm of wire showing, flux and tin both points, get the solder liquidus , and shove the wire i n there gently.

i`d have to agree with whackawhookie, leave it alone and get some one with the relevant experience.

post where abouts in the world you are.

[sk8er_4_life_ez]

woah thats liek totaly messed up i would do you a favor and do it for you im in LA i dunno where you are at tho...

[JThunderz]

i wouldnt use solder braid if i were you. You need something that isn't strong and that you dont have to use force. A solder pump but not the force one, the small bulb pump that way when solder starts to flow you can just pump it over the spot, thats if your trying to remove solder though. Next do what nicotine says and shorten those ends. One by one take the wire off, clip the ends to a small length, very small. After you do that you should tin the end with a small amount of solder, very small. After that reattach the wires. You shouldnt see much wire once your wire is attach, just enough so that the wire can be pushed down to the board without ripping it up. Honestly though I think you should get a spare electronic component you have somewhere thats trashed and just practice. Figure out how much solder you need to make a connection watch how solder flows to where you have the iron and how long you have to hold the wire so that it dries.

Thanks for the advice. Instead of the wires, could I just take them off and quick solder the chip? I think the wires are giving me a hard time soldering. And what do you suggest I do about point B?

@ thecheekymonkey, sk8er_4_life_ez: I live in Ohio, USA (I believe most people here are PAL users in Europe). The problem is that it just costs too much to let an experienced solderer do the job.

[whackawookie]

Even if you went the quicksolder route you still have to run a wire to your alternate since you lifted a pad. Besides that you kind of have solder globbed and hanging off the spots so the cyclowiz isn't going to seat properly until you clean that up

[apexi350z]

don't try to fix it yourself, you might end up with more damage. send it to a pro or see if some of your friend is good with soldering. get a magnifying glass, so you can fix POINT B by solder a wire on the chip. You will need a fine point solder tip, and lower watt solder gun. Good luck!

[OriginalXOR]

The problem is that it just costs too much to let an experienced solderer do the job.

What on earth do you mean, I'd say it costs about the price of a new Wii to continue to do this yourself.

[sk8er_4_life_ez]

i would do it for free just to give a heloing hand i know how fustrating it feels

[Steve-O 2006]

First I would Remove all them wires and start again... Your biggest problems are the damaged pad and all that stripped / uncovered wire that will just end up shorting everthig out..

What sort or soldering iron are you using??

to reduce shorts you want to strip the wires back by about 0.5mm so that non of it is hardly showing / exposed once its soldered to the pad eg like this -

http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/2416/dsc00236we7.jpg

[JThunderz]

Thanks for all the help. :)

Well, I gave my wii and chip to a tv repairer (he fixes the chip and wirings) and apparently, he fixed what's been damaged.. soldered point B of the wire to the pin leg, desoldered any mess-ups, and helped cut the wires shorter. Afterwards, the LED is now solid green and I'm hoping to start testing soon enough. I guess giving the chip for a professional solderer did the job.

[ramborai1987]

Ok, so I think I screwed up the Cyclowiz modchip install. Here's a pic:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v660/Jeff_PKLight/IMG_0591.jpg



haha wtf. lol my gran culda done better

[lenselijer]

i dont understand when you solder for the first time, why practice on a $250 console :confused:

[JThunderz]

So now I've closed the Wii and tested everything, and I'm afraid something else is wrong...

The Wii boots up perfectly fine, with the menu and all, and the chip was solid green before I closed it up. Problem is, the disc drive doesn't read any of my discs and it gives me a DRE. The soldering is correct, just something to do with the drive. When I turn the Wii on, the drive makes this insert and eject sound, and then it stops. When I try to insert a disc, the Wii drive is all stiff and won't pull in the disc into the drive.

This doesn't pertain to soldering anymore, but I just want some ideas or help. I was glad that the Wii worked and the modchip was successful after the expert solderer soldered the chip, but now, I am just clueless as what to do next.

I have an extra 90-day warranty from Nintendo's site, extending the previous warranty deadline to somewhere around May 26, so should I exchange the Wii for another one? Then I'd have to unsolder the chip and everything..

Thanks for any help.

EDIT:
And I'm not sure if the stickied topic for the dead Wii Drive relates to my problem... does it?

[brywalker]

I was glad that the Wii worked and the modchip was successful after the expert solderer soldered the chip, but now, I am just clueless as what to do next.

Buy a new Wii? You fucked it up, pay the piper.

[JThunderz]

Buy a new Wii? You fucked it up, pay the piper.

Well, I said I have a warranty.

So will a fuse or something work, as mentioned in the stickied topic?

[DDRlord]

Well, I said I have a warranty.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but by opening up your Wii, you voided your warranty, including the extension. You might be able to remove the chip and just pretend you "have no idea where all that extra solder and broken pads came from," but for all intents and purposes, your warranty is dead.

[jhoff80]

Is the DVD data cable seated properly?

[JThunderz]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but by opening up your Wii, you voided your warranty, including the extension. You might be able to remove the chip and just pretend you "have no idea where all that extra solder and broken pads came from," but for all intents and purposes, your warranty is dead.

Well Nintendo emailed me and said they'll be able to send me a replacement Wii, and when it arrives, I'd have to send in my Wii to them or else money will be charged. Problem is if I should take this offer or not..


Is the DVD data cable seated properly?

Maybe. Before I sealed the case, it was seated properly.


Everything worked fine before I sealed it, but could it be that the metal casing that goes over the dvd drive be causing the problem?

[whackawookie]

the case can definately play a role. did you put electrical tape over the spots and the chip to prevent shorts?

[scrotty]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v660/Jeff_PKLight/IMG_0596.jpg

Life is so unfair!. How can a monstrosity like this manage to survive but mine fecking well exploded???

[JThunderz]

the case can definately play a role. did you put electrical tape over the spots and the chip to prevent shorts?

I did put electrical tape over the chip, but didn't place it over the points on the board. The chip did manage to work, but do shorts play a role in the dvd drive not working?

Life is so unfair!. How can a monstrosity like this manage to survive but mine fecking well exploded???

Well, my chip wouldn't have survived if it was like that. I got an expert solderer to desolder all that and fix it up, so it's working right now.

[Pacotera]

[QUOTE=JThunderz]I did put electrical tape over the chip, but didn't place it over the points on the board. The chip did manage to work, but do shorts play a role in the dvd drive not working?


/QUOTE]

so go back and PUT ELETRICaL TAPE in the points... this should fix the problem

[JThunderz]

I would've placed the tape on, but didn't want it to break any soldering connection or point. I'll try it next time, but at the moment, the Wii drive partially works... and by that I mean the drive still makes the eject and insert noise, but after it stops, I'm able to insert a disc without it being stiff. I placed the case back in yesterday, rescrewed the drive so that it's more secure and tight, and made sure that my update wires did not interfere with the drive (since I didnt put in the metal casing back in the first time, and that could have been the problem since the wires were exposed to the drive and couldve gotten stuck there).

I don't know if the drive will last like this (working) very long, but hopefully it will.