GUIDE: Installing Cyclowiz and Switch

[Kypdurron5]

I decided to write this because I found a surprising lack of information out there on the detailed specifics of installing the Cyclowiz or Wiikey on the Wii. Questions I had were never answered and I ended up discovering the solutions myself. Therefore, while this is written primarily for those new to modchipping (ok, noobs), you may just find the answers to some of the smaller, nagging questions you have.

Note- this is advice only, and I do not take any responsibility for damage to you, or your console, or your modchip by using these tips. Modchipping is always conducted at your own risk.

Pre-Planning:
My first suggestion is “Plan to only do this once.” Do you ever want to be able upgrade your chip? If so, you’ll need to do the switch now; I realize you’re probably anxious to get started, but every time you open the console and start messing with your chip there’s the chance something could go wrong. You could break a solder point off, break a ribbon cable or connector, strip some of the smaller screws, etc., etc. You might as well do the reset pin now as well, even if you don’t foresee a need to turn it off…you never know. Have all the tools ready, and make sure you have a good 1-2 hours to do this.

My Tools:
These are the tools that I’ve done my successful modchip jobs with so far. I decided to list these because I think it’s better to have all the proper tools rather than just “making due” with what you have.


15w Radio Shack Soldering iron (<$10, I highly suggest nothing hotter (cooler is ok though))
.032 dia Rosin Core Solder
Desolder braid (get the coil of braid- not a pen/other device. I think having loose braid is easier to use, and yes, you will probably need somewhere along the way.
Set of precision screwdrivers
Long armed tweezers or skinny needle-nose pliers (definitely!)
Flux (don’t leave home without it….I mean it! If you’ve never soldered before you just can’t understand how much easier this makes soldering!)
Wire- when you order your modchip you might consider picking up the “installation” kit option that most resellers provide- this should give you the perfect wire for the job. Otherwise try to find 30 awg wire. Even if you’re going to do a quick-solder install, you’ll still need wire for the reset switch and the upgrade switch.
Switch- the two pin “Micromini Toggle Switch” from Radioshack is perfect (single pole single throw (SPST), this is the 2 pin one)
Multimeter (if you don’t have one, try a discount hardware store- you can find decent meters <$5)


Disassembly:
Find a good picture tutorial online. However, here is what you might not find in a picture tutorial-
1) It IS possible to take everything apart without loosing your (date/time) settings. Here’s how. While the console is still plugged into power- remove the lithium battery/cover and take out the tri-wing screw behind it. Now put the battery/cover back (you can even screw it in if you wish) and disconnect the power. Voila; the system never lost power!
2) Ribbon cable- it’s just long enough so that when you flip the drive over you don’t have to disconnect it….but disconnect it anyway. It’s connected by a specialized zero-insertion-force clip. Basically you just flip up the little brown bar above the black part of the cable and it just flies open/out. Be careful not to break it. The white cable is short and wrapped so that you’ll have to remove it before you can actually lay the drive down…again, do this carefully using your nails or a flat screw driver to put pressure ON THE WHITE part of the housing- NEVER pull on the cable itself. Apply a little pressure to one side then the other until it comes out.
3) To get to the middle pin of the reset switch you have to remove a black tray that sits over that area. There are three (semi-large) black screws involved. Also, if you used my battery saving technique and screwed it in, you’ll now have to unscrew it (but you still don’t have to actually remove the battery/cover. The right arm of the try has a square notch that has to be lightly pulled away, and most importantly here is that there is a silver metal nut mounted in the right-hand part of the tray. DO NOT LOOSE THIS. If you do, you won’t be able to screw your battery cover back in. I’ve also had problems with this nut flying out once I’ve put the cover back on…so when you put it back together screw the battery cover in ASAP, and remove it only when you’re ready to put that tri-wing screw behind it back in (just follow the same steps as in #1 but backwards to make sure the console doesn’t loose power and that your settings are saved).

The Switch:
As above, use the “Micromini Toggle Switch” from Radioshack- it’s cheap and you can find it locally. It fits perfectly into the vent hole and has plenty of clearance on the backside. You should mount it in one of the middle holes (rather than the edge) to make sure it clears the corresponding hole in the stand when it’s vertical. Also in case you’re wondering, the switch mounts itself; it’s threaded, so part of the switch pops through the vent hole, and then you put the supplied nut on the other side. Finally, the way you wire it determines the on-off position, so you really don’t have to give this much thought yet (but DO make sure to mark the on-off position once it’s established!).

Wiring:
Most of what you need to know I’ve put in the Soldering Technique section, but let me just say the PDF provided by Cyclowiz gives you the actual “plans” for this project. It tells you what to do, now I’m going to try to help you with the how part. Note- objects are much, much, much smaller than they appear in blown-up pictures >). Once you connect the switch you should mark the “on” side with some white-out or a permanent marker. Once you mount it in the case you’ll need to mark it again- this time on the nut/outside washer so it’s visible from the outside. Also keep in mind that “on” in this case means Programming Mode on, not modchip on. A general rule is to keep wire lengths as short as is reasonable (use longer wires for the programming switch- when you take it apart/put it back together you’ll need some freedom of motion, but not too much).

Soldering technique:
Due to some broken fuse reports lately, I decided to include my amateur tips. First, use a little flux on anything that you’re going to solder- but make sure you get flux only on the metal contacts. For application, I suggest either a toothpick or what I did was cut an ear swab half-way down at an extreme angle. This way it catches some flux in the hallow center for wire dipping, but also has a sharp, fine point for dabbing. Pre-tin everything by dabbing with a touch of flux and then a touch of the iron (that already has solder on it). Good soldering technique says that you should not try to apply solder directly from the iron tip, but rather use the coil of solder each time. This is virtually impossible when doing this precision work due to 1) the small parts involved and 2) the need to hold 2 or 3 things in place while soldering (you only have so many hands). Still, you should keep this rule in mind and adhere to it whenever possible. The pads will be the most difficult to pre-tin, but it makes them slightly bigger and the solder you’ve put on them will allow the solder bridge you’ll be making to flow a little bit from both sides and meet somewhere in the middle. If you’re doing a wire install you’ve got it easy- just make sure the tip of the wire is only exposed as much as necessary. If you’re doing the “quick solder” method then I suggest you heavily pre-tin each point on the modchip, and then use the coil of solder to try and connect the two points together. If you get too much solder on the tip of your iron clean it off by either using a cleaning system, or just touch it to a bit of the desolder braid…it soaks it right up.

Most importantly here is DON’T HOLD the iron on the contacts!!! You should be able to do this by simply “jabbing” the iron at your solder points. If you do have to hold it on the contacts it shouldn’t be for more than 2 seconds….literally, 2 seconds. Don’t expect everything to be perfect in the first jab, just be patient and careful as you try again. Don’t forget to add more flux if you’ve burned it all up and still don’t have it right. Before you get the iron anywhere near your connection you should already have it positioned EXACTLY like you want it- plan twice, solder once. Finally, if you don’t “feel good” about a particular connection- do it over again…don’t be lazy with this.

Testing:
Once you think everything is hooked up correctly first test each combination of contacts with the multimeter and make sure you haven’t bridged anything with solder. Then, cover the chip with a piece of electrical tape (but don’t press it down too tightly- you might have to take it off again very soon). Reattach the two cables and fold the drive together- be very methodical- you don’t want to break this. With the ribbon cable you just have to put it into the slot so it’s laying flat, then snap the bar down to hold it in place. Hold everything together and take it to your testing location. I suggest not testing it with the drive upside-down, so that’s why I suggest actually folding the two halves back together…that, and the fact that two drive cables are pretty short. If you’re very careful you can lift up the drive a little bit and peak under to see if the Cyclowiz LED is on. Try disabling it with the reset switch and going into programming mode. If all is well, pat yourself on the back.

Troubleshooting:
Whenever there is a problem the first thing to always do is to check every single solder point with surgical precision. Make sure there’s no bridging and check for any connections that may have come loose. If you see anything you’re not sure about just redo it- no matter how difficult it was to do the first time there IS a better way to do it if you’re not comfortable with it. Search the forums for your problem just in case other people are having it, and if you can’t find anything make a new thread. If you’re having a problem whereby your drive won’t accept/eject/read disks you might have the broken fuse issue, so just do a search for “dead drive.” If you’re getting drive read errors (DRE’s) on games that are known to be working then try at least 2 other kinds/brands of DVD media before looking into the hardware as the cause. Also, most intermittent problems are the result of a bad (but not completely broken) connection- so go over everything again.

Finishing Up:
Make sure every connection that sticks above the board is taped down/covered with electrical tape, route all wires AROUND integrated controllers (chips) and away from hot spots, and tape wires in their routed positions but make sure there’s enough slack to allow you take it apart again without accidentally ripping something up. Also make sure the ribbon cable is firmly seated and clipped in, and that none of your wires are getting pinched by anything metal or by the case itself. If you want to replace the dust guard around the ventilation holes, just simply cut out the portion where your switch is; it’s nice that the back of the switch is rectangular. Personally I’m going to wait until my warranty is up just in case I need to try and return it to Nintendo.

Conclusion:
Well, that’s it! I hope everything worked out for you…I found the process to be very smooth. Keep in mind that online forums are your best ally when things go wrong.

Here is my install, the red circles indicate connections related to the switch:
http://home.comcast.net/~kypdurron5/wiimodchip1.jpeg

This is what the switch looks like from behind:
http://home.comcast.net/~kypdurron5/wiimodswitchfar.jpg

[Osiris]

I'm sorry but that is not very attractive soldering at all :S
Guide is pretty comprehensive and well written tho.

[foobar2k]

I'm sorry but that is not very attractive soldering at all :S
Guide is pretty comprehensive and well written tho.

Doesn't have to be attractive as long as it works well.

[Osiris]

Yes well it's not a very good example, plus some of those joints look dodgy.

[AceMilo]

I agree, it's pretty bad soldering, but as long as it works that's what counts.

[LenLen]

Team Cyclops should update their install pdf to include pictures with the Cyclowiz fully installed using both methods, including the programming and disable wires.

[ultradevil]

hey there, i was wonder if anyone has come across this problem... i've got a switch, everything is hooked up properly, i've tested and retested, but when i have the switch leads connected to the cyclowiz, the chip never turns on. meaning the LED never turns on, and it doesn't load anything.

no, i don't have the switch in the 'on' position...

as a matter of fact, regardless of what position the switch is in, the LED never comes on. only when i desolder the leads on the chip does it work normally again.

only difference between what the above walkthrough did and i did is a 3 pin micro-mini toggle, and i have my chip connected via wire install instead of quicksolder.

i'd appreciate any opinions that may get me in the right direction to fixing this. thanks!

[nazgull]

Hey, my solders look the same way- bad:D With my skills I would never attempt to solder on the Wii- props for your courage:cool:

[Kypdurron5]

First of all I am also of the opinion that a functional mod chip and console are what is most important. Secondly, everyone is a critic- and criticizing this based upon a single-angle, medium resolution picture is something my autistic cousin would do. I assure you the connections are very solid, and there is clearly no bridging or scoring. If the one "particularly dodgy" connection you're referring to is the wire point in the lower right, rest assured I have already redone that one and it is now much more secure inside a larger drop of solder. I also think you're missing the point of my post, which was to provide information that I felt was either not available, or so disjointed as to be difficult to locate. The picture is only a supplement to the text, be it a good or a poor one. Obviously every soldering job will be different. Finally, this is meant to be a helpful thread...so if you have something to add (such as a photo of your own picture-perfect soldering job) then I demand that you do so. Criticizing any part of this document without providing a counter-example is nothing but destructive and useless to my readers.

[Kypdurron5]

only difference between what the above walkthrough did and i did is a 3 pin micro-mini toggle, and i have my chip connected via wire install instead of quicksolder.
This is a big difference because it's a different kind of switch. What you were looking for was a single pole single throw (SPST) switch. Check your packaging for which kind you have, and see if you can figure out how the wiring is different. Check out this web page (http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/switch.htm) for info on switch types, and see if it helps you figure out the wiring.

[Alucard77]

Only recommendation I would have is to give a little more information on how to test with the multimeter. Like if the reading should be 0.

[Brandogg]

If you're doing the quick solder install, all you need is a piece of electric tape to hold the chip in place while you drop the solder.

[ultradevil]

This is a big difference because it's a different kind of switch. What you were looking for was a single pole single throw (SPST) switch. Check your packaging for which kind you have, and see if you can figure out how the wiring is different. Check out this web page (http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/switch.htm) for info on switch types, and see if it helps you figure out the wiring.

A haaa.... my switch is a single pole double throw, i'll grab a single pole single throw switch and try it out tonight.

thanks for the insight dude!

[tokaido101]

can you mount this switch if you have a wiikey?

[Kypdurron5]

can you mount this switch if you have a wiikey?
For whatever reason I can't seem to find any information out there about using an upgrade switch with the Wiikey...not even on the official PDF documentation (this kind of problem is exactly why I decided to write a guide of my own). Anyway, assuming you can use a switch with the Wiikey it should work fine with this switch; the chip itself does not affect the mounting of the switch. Even if you're somehow mounting the chip near the ventilation holes there is plenty of clearance in that area.

[mizunoX]

This is a big difference because it's a different kind of switch. What you were looking for was a single pole single throw (SPST) switch. Check your packaging for which kind you have, and see if you can figure out how the wiring is different. Check out this web page (http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/switch.htm) for info on switch types, and see if it helps you figure out the wiring.

I purchased the SPDT as well because radioshack was out of the SPST micro mini.

As long as it fits okay I don't think that it should be a problem as long as you connect one of the wires to the middle prong.

[Kypdurron5]

I purchased the SPDT as well because radioshack was out of the SPST micro mini.

As long as it fits okay I don't think that it should be a problem as long as you connect one of the wires to the middle prong.
Actually I can't really think of any switch that would be a "problem," per se, you just have to figure out how to wire it up. I would have liked a cool push-button, but I couldn't find one that was the right size.

[Krusty2515]

excellent guide. I just have 2 questions

I have the same switch as you. Do you need a wrench to get it apart so you can mount it correctly

[Kypdurron5]

excellent guide. I just have 2 questions

no.1 When you are installing the switch do you solder the wire to the little points on the switch or do you loop them.

no.2 does the flux make it easier for teh solder to attract the points which you apply them on

Thank you and once again great guide
1) Both; I suggest looping a bit of wire (use the holes in the switch pins for extra grip) and then soldering them together.

2) Flux makes the solder flow from the iron/coil to where the flux is. If you just held an iron with some solder on it to a metal contact you might end up with some solder on the contact...but there is no physical/chemical reason that you would get a net flow of solder between the two. Using flux solves this problem. If you're not used to it I suggest trying it out on a spare circuit board or old electronic device first. You could even try soldering two wires together, once with flux and once without....you should notice a big difference!

[Krusty2515]

thank you i just wanted to know how do you get teh swtich apart to mount it. do you need a wrench or can you do it with your fingers. I have the switch but how do you take the bottom half off from the top half so you can mount it correctly tahnk you

[AceMilo]

hey there, i was wonder if anyone has come across this problem... i've got a switch, everything is hooked up properly, i've tested and retested, but when i have the switch leads connected to the cyclowiz, the chip never turns on. meaning the LED never turns on, and it doesn't load anything.

no, i don't have the switch in the 'on' position...

as a matter of fact, regardless of what position the switch is in, the LED never comes on. only when i desolder the leads on the chip does it work normally again.

only difference between what the above walkthrough did and i did is a 3 pin micro-mini toggle, and i have my chip connected via wire install instead of quicksolder.

i'd appreciate any opinions that may get me in the right direction to fixing this. thanks!

It's supposed to do that. When the chip is in programming mode, there is no led and it won't read any discs.

[Kypdurron5]

thank you i just wanted to know how do you get teh swtich apart to mount it. do you need a wrench or can you do it with your fingers. I have the switch but how do you take the bottom half off from the top half so you can mount it correctly tahnk you
On the switch side (not the backside) there is a nut, a big washer with a pointed side, another washer that has rough inside edges, and another nut. It's a little firm, but you should be able to do it with your fingers or some pliers...don't force anything, it's not THAT firm. Also, when you mount it...I found it was necessary to take off both nuts, use the rough edged washer on the backside, and then use the big washer and nut on the outside. I think that's the most logical arrangement (it's not physically long enough to use both nuts).

[Kypdurron5]

It's supposed to do that. When the chip is in programming mode, there is no led and it won't read any discs.
You need to re-read his post; he said the LED doesn't come on no matter which position the switch is in. Add to this the fact that the switch has 3 pins and the most likely possibility is the switch is wired incorrectly (or that the mod chip isn't hooked up correctly).

[Krusty2515]

hello i just installed my switch and then my drive would not turn on even though the console would. I desoldered the switch now the cyclowiz is flashing even though i did not touch the a b and c points. Can you help me with this. Thank you

[Sincity]

Geez...all the criticism of his soldering job. But look at the soldering on the DVD drive board, those are nice.

[ultradevil]

well i know the basics of electrical work, and i DID have the first switch wired correctly. one wire to middle lead, and one wire to outer lead. not that i'm an electrician, but grab a multimeter and you can figure it out. no connectivity = switch off, connectivity = switch on.

i grabbed a SPST switch and wired that up, still no dice.

ONLY with points S and T on the cyclowiz UNWIRED, will the LED light up, regardless of what position the switch is in.

just to make sure, i cracked open the whole thing and tested the wires (for probably the 11th time now).

S = drive to chip
X = drive to switch
T = chip to switch

power up and the chip just sits there as if to say "i don't feel like it...:mad:"

i just had a thought... i dont have the chip disable feature wired. would that matter? Do i need to have the chip disable wired up for the upgrade function to work?

[Kypdurron5]

hello i just installed my switch and then my drive would not turn on even though the console would. I desoldered the switch now the cyclowiz is flashing even though i did not touch the a b and c points. Can you help me with this. Thank you
I would suggest desoldering the chip...once you've done that check to see if the drive accepts disks? If not, you may have the broken fuse problem (http://forums.maxconsole.net/showthread.php?t=50528). Check out that link. If everything works fine without the chip, then just install the chip without the upgrade switch/reset wire and double-check your solder points for bridging (with multimeter). If it still works fine then add the switch again and go from there.

[Kypdurron5]

well i know the basics of electrical work, and i DID have the first switch wired correctly. one wire to middle lead, and one wire to outer lead. not that i'm an electrician, but grab a multimeter and you can figure it out. no connectivity = switch off, connectivity = switch on.

i grabbed a SPST switch and wired that up, still no dice.

ONLY with points S and T on the cyclowiz UNWIRED, will the LED light up, regardless of what position the switch is in.

just to make sure, i cracked open the whole thing and tested the wires (for probably the 11th time now).

S = drive to chip
X = drive to switch
T = chip to switch

power up and the chip just sits there as if to say "i don't feel like it...:mad:"

i just had a thought... i dont have the chip disable feature wired. would that matter? Do i need to have the chip disable wired up for the upgrade function to work?
That's a very strange problem. It makes me think that perhaps something is wrong with those solder points (not necessarily your soldering job though...). Could you perhaps post any close-up pictures of the area?

PS. I noticed on the S & T points with my mod chip that there was a connection between each side and the corresponding side of the (transistor/resistor/regulator?) immediately below it. I don't know if it's supposed to be this way or not, but mine works.... So you may just want to compare.

http://home.comcast.net/~kypdurron5/1.jpg
Oh, and for all you naysayers out there...please, help everyone out and tell them from these closeups why my soldering is so horribly "awful." Don't forget to include counter-examples of your own work!
http://home.comcast.net/~kypdurron5/2.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~kypdurron5/3.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~kypdurron5/4.jpg

[darkmc667]

I just installed mine, and everything seems fine, but while I was installing, two of my wires snapped (the exposed parts) and I had to get more wire and solder those two again. Are the wires that fragile or is something wrong with my solder job? I made sure to tape everything, so it shouldn't move around too much but I'd like to know if the wires are that weak. Btw, the first time, I put solder on the tip of the wire, this time I just stuck it into the solder points on the dvd instead.

[Xenogears V]

Very nice!.

[kurze]

Thanks for the tutorial! I'm trying to master soldering and installed 2 chips on systems. I have lately been practicing to take on the smaller wii contacts. Anyways, you mention FLUX. I have not used flux and have read that flux comes within the solder itself. What flux do i use?

I have found two items that are similar:

2 oz. Non-Spill Rosin Soldering Paste Flux (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049774&cp=&sr=1&origkw=flux&kw=flux&parentPage=search)

Clear Flux Solder (2 Oz.) (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062720&cp=&sr=1&origkw=flux&kw=flux&parentPage=search)

Whats the difference?

And please explain which one is preferred, and how to use it. Do you use it on the iron? Only the contacts or after tining? How do you apply it?..

Any insight will be very helpful!

[Kypdurron5]

Thanks for the tutorial! I'm trying to master soldering and installed 2 chips on systems. I have lately been practicing to take on the smaller wii contacts. Anyways, you mention FLUX. I have not used flux and have read that flux comes within the solder itself. What flux do i use?

I have found two items that are similar:

2 oz. Non-Spill Rosin Soldering Paste Flux (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049774&cp=&sr=1&origkw=flux&kw=flux&parentPage=search)

Clear Flux Solder (2 Oz.) (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062720&cp=&sr=1&origkw=flux&kw=flux&parentPage=search)

Whats the difference?

And please explain which one is preferred, and how to use it. Do you use it on the iron? Only the contacts or after tining? How do you apply it?..

Any insight will be very helpful!
The first is what I'm talking about, a flux/petroleum jelly paste. The second item actually appears to be regular rosin-core solder "Made of rosin-flux core, it is 60% tin and 40% lead, with a .063" diameter. " I DO suggest using a rosin-core solder, and yes, rosin is a type of flux. Even the first link is rosin flux, just in a different from. Why bother with both? Well, the rosin core solder is just a no-brainer...it flows better than non-rosin core (if you can even find this). However, with the precision work we're talking about here...many times you end up trying to solder with the solder that's on the iron tip rather than using your coil (I talked about this a little bit). The trouble with this is that the rosin flux from inside the solder has already burned up. Rosin will always smoke...but if you notice, when you apply solder to your iron it stops smoking almost immediately. That's because the flux has already burned off. Having (paste) flux available allows you to add fresh flux to your solder point/wire and encourage the solder from the iron to flow where you want it. My only caveats...don't use too much because 1) it can get messy and 2) you don't want solder trying to flow where you don't want it. Even the tiniest dab on the tiniest solder point will help the job to go a little easier. I say this from experience because I tried my very first install without flux (but I was still using rosin-core solder)...I really had to fight to get solder on the wire tips for eventual IC-pin placement. Once I found some solder in the garage and decided "let's give this a try" I couldn't BELIEVE how much easier it became.

[kurze]

Thanks for the quick reply! I went out and bought some solder w/ flux. Havent found the paste yet. looking forward to "see" the difference. As far as the paste goes how do you apply? Dab it on the contacts with what? Do i put it on the hook up wire?

Im learnding!

(I hope some one knows where its from..)

[AceMilo]

Thanks for the quick reply! I went out and bought some solder w/ flux. Havent found the paste yet. looking forward to "see" the difference. As far as the paste goes how do you apply? Dab it on the contacts with what? Do i put it on the hook up wire?

Im learnding!

(I hope some one knows where its from..)

The flux I bought came in a tub with a brush, you just rub the brush on the paste and lightly apply to the contacts.

[kurze]

Thank you friend!

[tentojuan]

Hi. I just bought this Because I saw it on another tutorial...will it work?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062509&cp=&sr=1&origkw=spst+submini&kw=spst+submini&parentPage=search

Just Making sure, thanks :)

Also, is the compability good? I mean if it works well, I wouldnt have to risk installing the switch and updating if it has good compability, thanks.

[Kypdurron5]

Hi. I just bought this Because I saw it on another tutorial...will it work?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062509&cp=&sr=1&origkw=spst+submini&kw=spst+submini&parentPage=search

Just Making sure, thanks :)

Also, is the compability good? I mean if it works well, I wouldnt have to risk installing the switch and updating if it has good compability, thanks.
That switch looks like the exact same thing just with a slightly different name/marketing approach- it should do just fine. Installing the switch is easy, I definitely wouldn't call that a "risk." Also, upgrading always poses a certain amount of danger but the risk should be minimal. To see a list of features check out this link (http://www.teamcyclops.com/news.html). Look at the 2/26 post...it highlights the old features and the new ones. Even without the new firmware I can run every game I've tried...10 in all. Warioware and Redsteel run a little choppy (ok, maybe too choppy to play), but aside from that everything else works great for me with no DRE's. Also, it will depend upon the burning media you use. I'm currently using Taiyo Yuden -R disks and haven't had a problem.

[tentojuan]

Thank you very much :)

[o0joshua0o]

Hi. I'm kind of new at this. Can anyone tell me exactly how to connect a SPST switch to the Cyclowiz? The pdf directions on team Cyclop's official website tell you to connect the X point on the board to the switch, and the T point on the Cyclowiz to the switch, but they don't show you a picture of the back of the switch, so you don't know exactly where on the back of the switch to connect these things. I'm using a "micromini" switch from Radio Shack. It has two prongs on the back. One is longer than the other. Do I connect the X point to the longer one, or the shorter one? Or does it not matter? Also, how do I know if I'm hooking it up so the switch's default position is "on" or "off"? And can it mess up your Wii if you accidentally turn the switch "on" during normal use? Please help if you can. Thanks!

[Kypdurron5]

Hi. I'm kind of new at this. Can anyone tell me exactly how to connect a SPST switch to the Cyclowiz? The pdf directions on team Cyclop's official website tell you to connect the X point on the board to the switch, and the T point on the Cyclowiz to the switch, but they don't show you a picture of the back of the switch, so you don't know exactly where on the back of the switch to connect these things. I'm using a "micromini" switch from Radio Shack. It has two prongs on the back. One is longer than the other. Do I connect the X point to the longer one, or the shorter one? Or does it not matter? Also, how do I know if I'm hooking it up so the switch's default position is "on" or "off"? And can it mess up your Wii if you accidentally turn the switch "on" during normal use? Please help if you can. Thanks!
Yeah...it's really simple. In short, it doesn't matter. What they're trying to show on the picture is that whichever pin (on the switch) to which you connect the wire coming from point "X" (on the board), THAT becomes the "on" side of the switch. The other side gets the wire coming from the "T" point, and that is now the "off" position (on= programming mode on, off= programming mode off). It's that easy, and it's up to you which position is which. I suggest marking the black housing of the switch with a little whiteout as soon as you connect the "X" wire so you don't loose track. Once the switch is mounted in the Wii case, you'll need to mark the outside as well (either make a little mark on the outside washer, or on the case itself- assuming you use the washer, the good news is that it only goes on in one direction (it's notched...look closely)).

[drquack02]

Thanks for the guide, it really helped with my install.

I also want to recommend heat stripable wire....that stuff was a lifesaver.

[morjoh01]

Hi just seen the news that a new motherboard has been made which stops the chip from being able to quick solder I have pre ordered a Wii and it should be here this week or next. Was just wandering what the chances are of me getting one of these or do you think it will be a while before they ship to uk?

[Kypdurron5]

Hi just seen the news that a new motherboard has been made which stops the chip from being able to quick solder I have pre ordered a Wii and it should be here this week or next. Was just wandering what the chances are of me getting one of these or do you think it will be a while before they ship to uk?
There really is no telling; don't worry about it yet though. Also, from the report that I read it looks like only the quick-solder points have changed, meaning you should still be able to do a wire installation.

[whackawookie]

Hi just seen the news that a new motherboard has been made which stops the chip from being able to quick solder I have pre ordered a Wii and it should be here this week or next. Was just wandering what the chances are of me getting one of these or do you think it will be a while before they ship to uk?

its best not to quicksolder anyway. You will have a hell of a time removing it should you ever want to upgrade to a next gen chip.

[morjoh01]

There really is no telling; don't worry about it yet though. Also, from the report that I read it looks like only the quick-solder points have changed, meaning you should still be able to do a wire installation.

yeah i am going to do a wire install anyway was just worried that the set up might be different on the motherboard so i will not be able to install it. Just hope that it is not.

[morjoh01]

Just read the news on maxconsole that the new motherboard revison works fine with the cyclowiz chip im not so worried now. It even still supports the quick solder and and the d2b upgrade has been released which mine will probably be.
WOO HOO!!!!!!!

[Kypdurron5]

I'm going to update my Cyclowiz tonight; if it works (or even if it doesn't), I'll post the results here.

[morjoh01]

I'm going to update my Cyclowiz tonight; if it works (or even if it doesn't), I'll post the results here.

Well i suppose it is the only way to fully test your install. with the new upgrade all the slow down in games is sorted out is it not?

[whackawookie]

Well i suppose it is the only way to fully test your install. with the new upgrade all the slow down in games is sorted out is it not?
slowdowns are a thing of the past

[morjoh01]

slowdowns are a thing of the past
thats even more of a woo hoo

[Kypdurron5]

slowdowns are a thing of the past
I'm pleased to report that this is absolutely TRUE >). I just upgraded my Cyclowiz- first cycle, no problems. Warioware runs perfectly now (DRE's before- unplayable). More importantly- ALL games are running and loading MUCH faster. This is really how it should have been from the beginning, but at least TeamCyclops eventually got it right. As per their instructions- be careful to not ground any of your wire connections...make sure they're wrapped in tape and secluded.

[morjoh01]

I'm pleased to report that this is absolutely TRUE >). I just upgraded my Cyclowiz- first cycle, no problems. Warioware runs perfectly now (DRE's before- unplayable). More importantly- ALL games are running and loading MUCH faster. This is really how it should have been from the beginning, but at least TeamCyclops eventually got it right. As per their instructions- be careful to not ground any of your wire connections...make sure they're wrapped in tape and secluded.

Cool cool sounds good!!!!

[morjoh01]

Cool cool sounds good!!!!
Cant wait to install mine and try mine when i get one lol

[morjoh01]

Cant wait to install mine and try mine when i get one lol
Never soldered in my life ha ha ha

[Arma]

Hi,

I need some advice;

Once I solder the chip in, boot up - it works fine... once I add the switch the mod chip isn't powered anymore (the LED isn't lit on the chip).

Any advice for what I should be checking in this situation?

[Kypdurron5]

Hi,

I need some advice;

Once I solder the chip in, boot up - it works fine... once I add the switch the mod chip isn't powered anymore (the LED isn't lit on the chip).

Any advice for what I should be checking in this situation?
Did you try flipping the switch to the other position? Assuming the answer to this is yes.....just check all you solder points very carefully; post pictures if you can/want.

[whackawookie]

Did you try flipping the switch to the other position? Assuming the answer to this is yes.....just check all you solder points very carefully; post pictures if you can/want.

yeah if you have a bad spot then your led will turn from orange to red depending on which position you have your switch (sorry I don't remember if its on or off) and your system doesn't power up.

[Arma]

Interesting and I did try this - regardless of the switch position the Wii would start up but the chip wouldn't work (no LED on the chip). Must be my soldering or could it be a problem with the switch itself?

One thing I did try was doing it step by step. First, I tried to solder the S wire in and from this step it failed as above - but it's also possible this woud cause anyones chip to stop working. I'll have another crack tonight ^^

Thanks.

[mtlca308]

I had the same problem with the chip not turning on after installing the switch (I used a 3 prong switch from radioshck as well). I mounted the switch through the intake hole on the bottom of the wii. After wrapping the switch in electrical tape to make sure that it wasnt making a connection with any metal on the inside of the wii, it worked.

[morjoh01]

do you need to install the chip disable wire that goes to the reset middle pin for upgrade to work cause i am upgrading now and stuck in a cycle cyclowiz

[morjoh01]

do you need to install the chip disable wire that goes to the reset middle pin for upgrade to work cause i am upgrading now and stuck in a cycle cyclowiz

As i have just done my install everything works ok plays my back ups but just get stuck in the program loop it says that this is the s wire i am pretty sure nothing is bridged it says that even the shielding should not be near metal so i think that is what it might be any suggestions would be good cheers

[pat c]

i getting a wii soon, and i was wondering if there are diff kinds of wiis?
like are their models/serials that don't work with the cycle cyclowiz and wiikey or will ever wii accept mod chips?
-thx

[Kypdurron5]

i getting a wii soon, and i was wondering if there are diff kinds of wiis?
like are their models/serials that don't work with the cycle cyclowiz and wiikey or will ever wii accept mod chips?
-thx
As far as I know there are not yet any Wii's that won't work with the Cyclowiz/WiiKey. For the latest news on compatibility check out www.teamcyclops.com (http://www.teamcyclops.com).

[jasonvh]

First of all, thanks Kyp for the great tutorial. It's going to really help once my Cyclowiz comes in the mail.

I just have a couple of questions. I want to go ahead and wire up the upgrade (switch) and disable wires at the same time I install the mod chip.
Have there been any problems from Nintendo (beyond a warning) when updating the Wii after the chip is installed? Does this screw anything up?
What about being on Connect24. Any problems?

I guess in short what I'm trying to ask is can I safely install the Cyclowiz with the switch and the disabler and then update both the Cyclowiz and the Wii and be on Connect24 without getting any messages from Nintendo saying you're screwed? (I realize Nintendo is not Microsoft, but I thought I'd double-check first.) ;)

Second question, do most people use the "quick solder" method, or run wires between every solder point? Which is best and why?

Thanks in advance!

[AceMilo]

First of all, thanks Kyp for the great tutorial. It's going to really help once my Cyclowiz comes in the mail.

I just have a couple of questions. I want to go ahead and wire up the upgrade (switch) and disable wires at the same time I install the mod chip.
Have there been any problems from Nintendo (beyond a warning) when updating the Wii after the chip is installed? Does this screw anything up?
What about being on Connect24. Any problems?

I guess in short what I'm trying to ask is can I safely install the Cyclowiz with the switch and the disabler and then update both the Cyclowiz and the Wii and be on Connect24 without getting any messages from Nintendo saying you're screwed? (I realize Nintendo is not Microsoft, but I thought I'd double-check first.) ;)

Second question, do most people use the "quick solder" method, or run wires between every solder point? Which is best and why?

Thanks in advance!

Nintendo hasn't done anything but block some software from running, mostly gamecube freeloaders, hardware mods are fine. There is nothing to be banned from if you're worried about online since it's decentralized. Don't quicksolder, wires are easier, especially if you screw up.

[Kypdurron5]

First of all, thanks Kyp for the great tutorial. It's going to really help once my Cyclowiz comes in the mail.

I just have a couple of questions. I want to go ahead and wire up the upgrade (switch) and disable wires at the same time I install the mod chip.
Have there been any problems from Nintendo (beyond a warning) when updating the Wii after the chip is installed? Does this screw anything up?
What about being on Connect24. Any problems?

I guess in short what I'm trying to ask is can I safely install the Cyclowiz with the switch and the disabler and then update both the Cyclowiz and the Wii and be on Connect24 without getting any messages from Nintendo saying you're screwed? (I realize Nintendo is not Microsoft, but I thought I'd double-check first.) ;)

Second question, do most people use the "quick solder" method, or run wires between every solder point? Which is best and why?

Thanks in advance!
Nintendo is on a rampage- but it's against installers and some resellers, not invidual users. One note- be careful when installing the reset wire. I didn't have any problems the first time, but the second time the Wii kept resetting at random times. I soldered and desoldered the wire 5 times before finally getting it- and I was extremely careful each time to make sure it was only touching the one pin.

I personally prefer quicksolder because it's cleaner, looks nicer, and there is no chance of having signal degradation due to interference (or wires that are too long). It's up to you...but quicksolder is probably more difficult. Don't plug the power cord in until you're 100% sure everything is soldered correctly with no bridging. Also make sure the switch isn't touching any other (metal) part when you go to test it (before completely putting it back together). Finally...be sure to first look and see if you have a "cut legs" Wii. That easily triples the difficulty, but I did it a few weeks ago without screwing anything up. What to look for: follow the traces on the motherboard to see where the solder points originate. They go into the black IC (the one marked DMS, D2B, etc.). There should be a series of legs on every side of the chip that are perfectly symmetrical....if any are missing, then you'll have to look into doing a "cut legs" install, where you have to shave away the edge of the IC to expose the underlying metal connections.

[jasonvh]

Okay, so I bought my Wii from Future Shop a couple weeks ago. I was happy when I entered the serial # into that website that supposedly tells you what chipset you have (http://nintendo-scene.com/wiitracker/search.php).
I was delighted when it told me I have the "DMA chipset, with legs most likely not cut." (Serial# is a low-sounding LU 101XXXXXX.)

However, today when I went to install my newly-received Cyclowiz chip, I opened it up only to find myself staring face-to-face with a horrible monster named D2C! :eek:

Now, when I bought my Wii, the only one they had left to sell me was one where the box had been opened. I was happy just to find one and everything looked great inside so I took it.

The shell looked like it had never been tampered with. All the stickies on the bottom were mint, no screwdriver marks on the screws. If someone else had bought it, switched the drives inside and then returned it to the store, it should have been somewhat obvious. But it was clearly untouched.
How is it then, that it could have a serial# like LU101, yet have the D2C chipset?? :confused:

If you had been in the room with me at the time you'd have sworn a shipload of sailors had just docked in the immediate vacinity.

So now I'm left with an unopened Cyclowiz, a shiny new triwing screwdriver, new soldering equipment and I'm SCREWED. My only hope is to plead with my brother-in-law to trade me his older Wii for my new one. But chances are he's not going to want to lose all his saved stuff.

If/when the D2C chipset is eventually conquered, I wonder if it will involve buying a whole new chip, or will we be able to upgrade via software.

Pissed Off,
Jason

[jasonvh]

So now I'm left with an unopened Cyclowiz, a shiny new triwing screwdriver, new soldering equipment and I'm SCREWED. My only hope is to plead with my brother-in-law to trade me his older Wii for my new one. But chances are he's not going to want to lose all his saved stuff.


Good news. Instead of trading the our entire Wii's, I was allowed to simply swap the DVD drives, thereby nobody loses any of their saved/downloaded/registered information.

Hopefully this works without a hitch! I'm going to have another go at installing the Cyclowiz tomorrow on his drive with the D2B chipset (Now my drive.) I'll write back with an update once it's done. Fingers crossed!

[Kypdurron5]

Good news. Instead of trading the our entire Wii's, I was allowed to simply swap the DVD drives, thereby nobody loses any of their saved/downloaded/registered information.

Hopefully this works without a hitch! I'm going to have another go at installing the Cyclowiz tomorrow on his drive with the D2B chipset (Now my drive.) I'll write back with an update once it's done. Fingers crossed!

Good job. The D2C will probably require a new chip (the one that's officially hacked so far is using something like 40 wires and an Actel chip).

[bigfoothunt1]

Good job. The D2C will probably require a new chip (the one that's officially hacked so far is using something like 40 wires and an Actel chip).
Probably? Time to join the rest of the class....you're somewhat behind....

[Kypdurron5]

Probably? Time to join the rest of the class....you're somewhat behind....
You are correct, I am somewhat behind. However, until there is a commercially available modchip for the D2C I refuse to exclude the possibility that modders will find a way to adapt the current chips. Is it likely? No. Thus why I used the phrase "will probably require a new chip." While I get current on modding news...how about you jump off that high horse?

[jasonvh]

Hopefully this works without a hitch! I'm going to have another go at installing the Cyclowiz tomorrow on his drive with the D2B chipset (Now my drive.) I'll write back with an update once it's done. Fingers crossed!

(Actually it's a DMS, not a D2B.) So I spent the better part of the morning/afternoon installing the Cyclowiz today. It was a little harder than I thought it would be because the connections are so damn tiny. I was pretty sure all my solder joints were good and not bridged, but when I hooked it all up to test it out, it couldn't read any of the back-up DVDs.

I was in a hurry to pack it up and get ready for work, so I didn't get time to do any trouble-shooting today. I didn't even get to check the LED on the Cyclowiz to make sure it was on.

So at this point, I don't know if it's a problem with my soldering, a problem with the switch, a problem with the DVD media... Could be any number of things. It was a bit of a downer to have to leave for work after slaving away all afternoon and not getting results.

But before I go desoldering everything and starting again from square one, I want to ask opinions about DVD media. The discs I'm using are Imation DVD+R, burned at 4x. Do other brands work better? Does it make a big difference whether they're +R or -R ?

[Kypdurron5]

(Actually it's a DMA, not a D2B.) So I spent the better part of the morning/afternoon installing the Cyclowiz today. It was a little harder than I thought it would be because the connections are so damn tiny. I was pretty sure all my solder joints were good and not bridged, but when I hooked it all up to test it out, it couldn't read any of the back-up DVDs.

I was in a hurry to pack it up and get ready for work, so I didn't get time to do any trouble-shooting today. I didn't even get to check the LED on the Cyclowiz to make sure it was on.

So at this point, I don't know if it's a problem with my soldering, a problem with the switch, a problem with the DVD media... Could be any number of things. It was a bit of a downer to have to leave for work after slaving away all afternoon and not getting results.

But before I go desoldering everything and starting again from square one, I want to ask opinions about DVD media. The discs I'm using are Imation DVD+R, burned at 4x. Do other brands work better? Does it make a big difference whether they're +R or -R ?
That's really an opinion question, but I've had very good success with the Taiyo Yuden 8x -R value line (burned AT 8x with a reliable Samsung DVD drive).
I get the "white inkjet hub printable" so I can label them directly with my Epson printer. Other people have reported good success with the premium line. Also, I was getting read errors when burning at 2x or 4x, so make sure if you get 8x discs that you burn at 8x. Also, you really should avoid putting any type of stickers or paper labels on DVD discs- either write on them with a marker or do the inkjet printable thing. I really like www.supermediastore.com. They do lots of honest comparisons, and carry almost any type of disc you could hope to find. Lots of free shipping deals too.

However, media is more than likely not your problem. I've used several types for different reasons, but have yet to encounter a disc that won't load at all. The first thing to check is the chip LED, and yes, your post is a little premature >). Also, don't be hasty....there's no reason to just desolder the whole thing. Check each point super-carefully, and resolder any ones you have doubts about. Also, do some multimeter testing to look for bridged connections. Finally, don't get sloppy in your frustration- the chip may not work yet, but at least you haven't blown your drive fuse. Each time you test make sure nothing is going to cause a short.

My second and most recent install took a marathon total of 10 hours. This is for many reasons, but mainly it was just a process of soldering, troubleshooting, finding out I have cut legs, more troubleshooting, more soldering, more troubleshooting (problem with my reset wire), and finally everything is perfect. Also- don't make my time-consuming mistake and put everything back together 100% because you got a single disc to load. Once you get that far assemble everything except for the screws, and play with it for a day or two. Just make sure everything is 100% reliable before screwing it all down.

[jasonvh]

My second and most recent install took a marathon total of 10 hours. This is for many reasons, but mainly it was just a process of soldering, troubleshooting, finding out I have cut legs, more troubleshooting, more soldering, more troubleshooting (problem with my reset wire), and finally everything is perfect. Also- don't make my time-consuming mistake and put everything back together 100% because you got a single disc to load. Once you get that far assemble everything except for the screws, and play with it for a day or two. Just make sure everything is 100% reliable before screwing it all down.

I wish I could say these things are a breeze to install. I wish I could recommend the Cyclowiz to every Wii owner I know. But my experience thus far has been anything but a breeze. I've run into setback after roadblock after headache every step of the way, it seems. Eventually I had to admit defeat and pay a professional with proper equipment to install it for me. Then, today, just when I thought I was in the free and clear, and it was finally recognizing back-ups, just one last step remained: The 3.5 update.
I was happy when it recognized the switch and reported that it was working properly. Then began the endless cycle of "turn the switch off then on, then press Reset."
I must have let it cycle through the programming process 20-30 times before finally unplugging it, nearly in tears, because I knew the chip was now erased.
Fortunately I can still play my original games but I was beside myself with anger that TeamCyclops would even release upgrade software without a failsafe feature. These forums are full of horror stories from people having problems installing their modchips. (Not just the Cyclowiz, admittedly.) I'm not calling myself or anyone else an idiot, but they really need to find a way to make these things "idiotproof", if you know what I mean.
I have now read about a cable that I can make to flash the chip from my PC. Which, I suppose, is my only option now. But I'll bet that's not going to be as easy as it sounds either. With the luck I've been having, I expect it'll be a painful process as well. (Anyone have a pre-made cable they don't need anymore?)

Bitter now,
Jason

[bigfoothunt1]

Too bad you didn't buy a Wiinja. My Wiinja Deluxe is nothing special other than it just works.....

[jasonvh]

Too bad you didn't buy a Wiinja. My Wiinja Deluxe is nothing special other than it just works.....

Well I went with the Cyclowiz because, by comparison, it brags the most features and looks to be the best one out there. And I'm sure once I finally get everything working 100%, I'll be happy with it. After some time to reflect I know I shouldn't be bashing Cyclowiz or Team Cyclops. My level of expertise isn't their problem.
It's just that the process of installing it and upgrading it can be really tricky for an amatuer with a high margin for error. If everything could be perfect on the first try, life would be peachy.
It'll be a big feeling of accomplishment once I finally reflash the chip with the DVD-Tool PC-Flasher cable I started making today.

[Kypdurron5]

I wish I could say these things are a breeze to install. I wish I could recommend the Cyclowiz to every Wii owner I know. But my experience thus far has been anything but a breeze. I've run into setback after roadblock after headache every step of the way, it seems. Eventually I had to admit defeat and pay a professional with proper equipment to install it for me. Then, today, just when I thought I was in the free and clear, and it was finally recognizing back-ups, just one last step remained: The 3.5 update.
I was happy when it recognized the switch and reported that it was working properly. Then began the endless cycle of "turn the switch off then on, then press Reset."
I must have let it cycle through the programming process 20-30 times before finally unplugging it, nearly in tears, because I knew the chip was now erased.
Fortunately I can still play my original games but I was beside myself with anger that TeamCyclops would even release upgrade software without a failsafe feature. These forums are full of horror stories from people having problems installing their modchips. (Not just the Cyclowiz, admittedly.) I'm not calling myself or anyone else an idiot, but they really need to find a way to make these things "idiotproof", if you know what I mean.
I have now read about a cable that I can make to flash the chip from my PC. Which, I suppose, is my only option now. But I'll bet that's not going to be as easy as it sounds either. With the luck I've been having, I expect it'll be a painful process as well. (Anyone have a pre-made cable they don't need anymore?)

Bitter now,
Jason
Well, to be fair, you didn't really NEED to upgrade the chip...so you took a bit of a gamble and lost. I forgot to hook up the S wire when I tried to upgrade the first time...luckily it didn't erase my chip! For me the Wii just isn't that great of a system. Even Metroid Prime 3 just doesn't come close to games like Bioshock. Hopefully the new Mario game will be a lot of fun...but in the end this whole mod chipping thing is really more about the challenge of doing it rather than it is actually playing backed up games on a so-so system. Don't be frustrated...you took on a task that is difficult, and in the end hopefully you will be able to rise to the challenge.

[aang123]

I wish I could say these things are a breeze to install. I wish I could recommend the Cyclowiz to every Wii owner I know. But my experience thus far has been anything but a breeze. I've run into setback after roadblock after headache every step of the way, it seems.

Bitter now,
Jason

Yea, I hear you man. I ordered my cyclowiz after going through the instruction 10 times but I had no idea how hard it would be. Specifically, the reset connection. Anyways, I didn't have confidence to do the job (after I tried for a few hours and got nowhere) so I took it over to a friend who had already modded his wii. Unfortunately, the fuse on my drive blew out. We ended up using the fuse hack but I don't trust it very much, and we also desoldered the cyclowiz. So now I have a damaged wii (though it does work for now) and no mod.

[jasonvh]

Yea, I hear you man. I ordered my cyclowiz after going through the instruction 10 times but I had no idea how hard it would be. Specifically, the reset connection. Anyways, I didn't have confidence to do the job (after I tried for a few hours and got nowhere) so I took it over to a friend who had already modded his wii. Unfortunately, the fuse on my drive blew out. We ended up using the fuse hack but I don't trust it very much, and we also desoldered the cyclowiz. So now I have a damaged wii (though it does work for now) and no mod.

That sucks, man. I'm sorry to hear that.

Well, after finally building the DVD-Tool PC Flasher cable and trying to reflash the Cyclowiz, as suspected, no go. It wouldn't recognize that it was attached to the Wii despite going over all the connections meticulously and changing the communication speed and making sure I had the right port #.

I took it to a professional installer who rebuilt the cable for me, using his own diodes, and even he still couldn't get it to work. So I finally gave up on the Cyclowiz. He generously put in a Wiikey for me at no extra charge and now everything is working perfectly. I'm finally happy.

I'm not trying to put-down the Cyclowiz or dissuade anybody from buying one. Apparently they've worked great for many people. Just not in my particular case, unfortunately.

[aang123]

I took it to a professional installer who rebuilt the cable for me, using his own diodes, and even he still couldn't get it to work. So I finally gave up on the Cyclowiz. He generously put in a Wiikey for me at no extra charge and now everything is working perfectly. I'm finally happy.


I decided to get it done by a professional also. The guy I found prefers the WiiKey, but I like the switch feature of the cyclowiz so I asked him if he can install that for me. He charges ~$90 which I think is pretty steep but he's the only guy close enough for me to drive to (I would rather not mail my wii to someone). I hope it works out.
It's cool that yours is working now.