Open Source Wii Mod - Chiip?

[Zeus]

<a href="http://chiip.dl.am/" target="_blank">Chip.dl.am</a> has instructions on how you can construct your own Wii mod, the creator claims that the only difference between this and others on the market is that it is free. Although D2B hardware versions are not supported. More info inside and of course at the mentioned URL.

Official Feature List by Chiip

Chiip is technically capable of doing about everything any other current modchips does. If there is an important feature that modchip XY has while Chiip doesn't (like D2B support), chances are it will be available as an update for Chiip soon.

- Currently, Chiip has the following features:
- Runs Wii backup copies from the same region
- Runs GameCube backup copies from the same region
- Supports DVD-R / DVD+R media
- Supports DMS and D2A chipsets. D2B chipsets are not supported yet; use Google to find out which chipset you have, based on your Wii's serial number
- Can be updated
- Optional status LED

Most other features the other modchip developers try to advertise their chips with are not worth mentioning in my eyes. As they try to sell them, they just try to list as many features as possible. "Stealth" for example sounds great, but in fact all current Wii modchips (including Chiip) have the same amount of stealth.

The firmware is still marked beta as I have only tested Chiip on my own Wii so far. And it still has a bug: It usually doesn't accept a backup copy that is present in the drive when the Wii is turned on; you'll have to eject and reinsert the disc. Once the disc is accepted it runs just absolutely fine though.

I will probably release a new version that fixes this bug and adds some more features within a week..

[meangreenie]

Wow.. I almost want to run out a buy a Wii. I just so want to build one those chiips now.

The tut is as clear as bell, a really nice job.

[Perkele]

LOL, i feel sorry for the Wiinja and Cyclowiz buyers, this chip can do more very soon and costs 20 times less.

[coldjim]

wow really nice
just got my wii today
does anyone know whre i can get all the parts for this mod in the uk?

EDIT: also how do i find out what my wii chipset is? plz

[bgmnt]

Damn, today is sunday, all shops will be closed :/

In France the ATMega costs 6.40€ !!

[Slowking]

This is veeeery nice. Even I could build this and I most likely will, once I've got enough money. ^^"
I think I'll buy the stuff at reichelt, like the guy suggested. The first time it's a good thing to be german. XD

[Xboxmodder999]

the only part I need to do this is the Atmega8-16. And it appears that radioshack does not carry it :(. Which means I would have to wait a few days to get it off the internet.

[Fasman]

Is it just me or does that seem remarkebly similar to Wiiskas?

[coldjim]

right if i were to order the companants online

is this the right chip...
http://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.aspx?kw=ATmega8-16&tier1=Electronic+Components&tier2=Micros+%26+Crystals&tier3=Atmel+Micros&tier4=ATmega+8-bit+AVR+Microcontrollers&moduleno=77086

[Adan0s]

very nice, i`m also going to build my own modchip with this tutorial... :)

[kneehighspy]

this is a great little project. i thought i would make a pdf for folks to use instead of having to rely on the looking up of the site.

everything left intact for proper props and recognition of origin to the author.

* Updated *

I've updated the .pdf to correspond to the latest info by the author.

[Xboxmodder999]

right if i were to order the companants online

is this the right chip...
http://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.aspx?kw=ATmega8-16&tier1=Electronic+Components&tier2=Micros+%26+Crystals&tier3=Atmel+Micros&tier4=ATmega+8-bit+AVR+Microcontrollers&moduleno=77086
I believe that the one you would order from that list is ATMEGA8-16PU 8-BIT MICRO 8K DIL-28 (RC)




By the way, anyone know of any "brick and mortar" stores in the USA that might carry the Atmega8-16?

[halomasta203]

Wow. Thanks for the tutorial!

[Misser]

right if i were to order the companants online

is this the right chip...
http://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.aspx?kw=ATmega8-16&tier1=Electronic+Components&tier2=Micros+%26+Crystals&tier3=Atmel+Micros&tier4=ATmega+8-bit+AVR+Microcontrollers&moduleno=77086

ATMEGA8L-8PU 8-BIT MICRO 8K DIL-28 (RC) should be it. Shame i didn't find a place in NL that has it that cheap.

[coldjim]

wow i a tually gonna do this
the whole thing will only come to bout £5 in english pounds probably
and that is awesome for a chip!

[Guiru]

This is bullshit, just modified wiiskas code with instructions on how to build a programmer. Give the credit to the people who deserves it, wiiskas is the first open source mod for wii.

[Monkey01]

Hmm, shouldn't we all tell how evil it is that they don't give the chips themself for free? Like here? (http://www.maxconsole.net/?mode=news&newsid=14288)

[Tfizzle]

anyone find a place in the US online where you can get all the parts? radioshack has most of the items. found another site that has the ATmega chip and everything else except the 100nF cap.

[Perkele]

Damn, today is sunday, all shops will be closed :/
In France the ATMega costs 6.40€ !!
Try eBay, I just bought 5 of them for €9.00 shipped.

[mickcris]

anyone find a place in the US online where you can get all the parts? radioshack has most of the items. found another site that has the ATmega chip and everything else except the 100nF cap.
you can probably get the cap in a radio shack store. it is a pretty common size.

[evndude]

Maybe you could try Futurlec.com (http://futurlec.com/index.shtml)?

I havn't looked up any of the parts for this project, but I've used them before and they're really good.

[coldjim]

actually forget this
i think i have a D2B chip checking by the serial number

[dwrecording]

Here is chip also in US http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=ATMEGA8-16PUvirtualkey55650000virtualkey556-ATMEGA8-16PU

[sunny5011]

can anyone confirm this working thx and can anyone tell me a place i can buy these components in toronto?

[11111]

very good. things like this will definitely drive down the modchip price for wii.

[satwal]

can anyone confirm this working thx and can anyone tell me a place i can buy these components in toronto?

Try Active Surplus, they're near the City TV buliding.

http://www.activesurplus.com/

After seeing how easy it is to make this chip I might be going there myself tomorrow :)

[wak4444]

Hey...

I'm interested in the US supplier you have found (for the atmega8 -16).

I found this one @3.99US http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H2205.html but I'm not sure if it's the good chip.

[h3xx3r]

only places I can find in UK selling this chip are
Rapid Electronics (£4.95 Delivery charge)
Farnell ( Minimum spend of £20)
& RS have them but they are way too expensive.

Any more places ??

[sunny5011]

any stores i can buy theses components in mississauga and is it confirmed working?????

[sunny5011]

couldi somehow dothiswith an atmega128????

[wiggim]

couldi somehow dothiswith an atmega128????

gonna solder a cardslot on top of your wii?

its likley possible, but I would prefer it to be ported to an atmel 2313 chip over an atmega 128.. the 128 has too many pins.. the 2313 only has 20.. so 8 less pins than the atmel 8-16

[hugoliva]

I'm in Guatemala, and i'm buying all the components at JAMECO.COM, they carry all the components needed for the project.

[karimko]

is it possible to use the atmega 128 smart card and add a card slot reader to wii??

[chris_seaviewfc]

Ive made a diffrant wii assembily picture if needed, the other one withe red paint lines dosnt help!

http://www.zen100974.zen.co.uk/new.bmp

[nsdothack]

I contacted the maker of this program and I'm waiting on a replay but I asked him was it possible to use a Viper GC Programmer with some soldering to make that the programmer for this project. Im waiting on his reply.

[pCeSlAyEr]

anyone find a place in the US online where you can get all the parts? radioshack has most of the items. found another site that has the ATmega chip and everything else except the 100nF cap.
you could use a 0.1uF cap since its the same thing as a 100nF

and RadioShack has everything exept the 28pin IC socket(you could use the 40pin) and the ATmega chip.

anyone recommend a type of wire for this... I am building it as I type.. Using 24guage solid phone wire for the internals of the programmer..

[wak4444]

I'd suggest 30awg... the smallest u can get

[pCeSlAyEr]

I'd suggest 30awg... the smallest u can get
all radio shack carries is 30awg Kynar 460 coated wrapping wire... I wonder if its the same as most Modchip wire

[magind]

LOL, i feel sorry for the Wiinja and Cyclowiz buyers, this chip can do more very soon and costs 20 times less.

LOL, you must be joking. $40 is NOTHING for a PROFESSIONAL, researched, documented, supported, piece of equipment.

I don't care if someone figures out how to boot backups by hanging the wii the ceiling and spotlighting it with an array of multicolored flashlights, I ain't doin' it. $40 is worth it for peace of mind.

[magind]

very good. things like this will definitely drive down the modchip price for wii.

Im interested to see what this will do to the chip market. Honestly, the chips are so cheap already, I don't see this doing much. I mean, even if the HEX is out, there's always going to be a TON of 'plug-n-play modders' to keep the fridge full.

[chris_seaviewfc]

$40 is worth it

i dont think so, rather spend it on somthing like dvds or start a trust fund ;)

[magind]

i dont think so, rather spend it on somthing like dvds or start a trust fund ;)

wow, an entire $40 for a trust fund? I wish my parents loved me that much...

Dude, are serious? Besides, the "free" mod isnt FREE anyway...

[wak4444]

wow, an entire $40 for a trust fund? I wish my parents loved me that much...

Dude, are serious? Besides, the "free" mod isnt FREE anyway...

Come on... it's not free but it is the cheapest.. beside, it's god damn fun to do it all by yourself... :D

[magind]

Come on... it's not free but it is the cheapest.. beside, it's god damn fun to do it all by yourself... :D

Hehe... you got me there. For us dorks its a blast, but speaking about the masses, which these mods appeal to, we're talking peanuts in market value drop.

[n003ie]

Does anyone know if there is a similiar project for a gamecube selfmade modchip ?

[evlspcmk]

Does anyone know if there is a similiar project for a gamecube selfmade modchip ?

game cube drive chips are to cheap to care last time i saw them they were 15 bucks for a Xeno or something like that so just buy one

[sunny5011]

can somebody tell me how to use an atmel 2313 to do wii and also include pictures on how to install on wii

THANKS

[Perkele]

Does anyone know if there is a similiar project for a gamecube selfmade modchip ?
You're better off buying an older version GC chip from Divineo, the ViperGC costs $14.95, the XenoGC v1 only costs $9.95.

But maybe when the source code of the Chiip gets released it can get adjusted to work on the GC too, there's not that much difference.

LOL, you must be joking. $40 is NOTHING for a PROFESSIONAL, researched, documented, supported, piece of equipment.
If you think the Wiinja is professional you'd better put yourself in that idiot list of yours. :p
I bet their went more research in this Chiip than in the Wiinja and it's known to be updateable.

[coadyj]

is this one of the ATmega8-16??

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=43593&criteria=Microcontrollers&doy=25m2


can someone comfirm for me
other info for maplin people

FZ63T * 2 = Turned Pins IC Sockets
YQ48C * 1 = D-Sub Connectors
JW87U * 1 = 25-Way D-Sub Hood with Thumbscrews
N63BH * 1 = Resistor Starter Pack E3
JL18U * 1 = High Voltage Radial Electrolytic Capacitors

[gboshort]

---From Radio Shack

Programmer

276-1547 ($1.89) 25 Position Male Solder D-Sub Connector
276-1549 ($1.79) 9- and 25-Position Non Shielded D-Sub Connector Hood
271-1313 ($0.99) 220 Ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5 (Get Two)
272-1027 ($1.19) 47µF 35V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor

Chip
272-1069 ($1.29) 0.1µF 50V 10% PC-Mount Capacitor (100nF Capacitror - 2 in pkg)
276-0026 ($1.29) 3mm Red LED (2 in pkg)

--- From Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com) - thanks dwrecording

556-ATMEGA8-16PU ($5.60) ATMEGA8-16PU Chip
571-3902622 ($0.20) Tyco IC socket 28 pin economy tin (need 2)

The IC socket is the economy version. Feel free to get a better one....

I don't think Mouser has the chips in stock. Someone else can find out the lead time to get them, or a different supplier.

Enjoy!

[kaoken]

To people that don't know, you still need to program the chip. Which means you need access to some type of chip programer.

Edit: Nvm I stand corrected.

[pCeSlAyEr]

To people that don't know, you still need to program the chip. Which means you need access to some type of chip programer.
WOW.. are you serious? did you even check the site? LOL

not only did he show how to build the programmer he gave 2 diff programs to flash the chip with.. plus the flash instructions..

[Sepioth]

This the right chip ??

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=248330&pa=248330PS

[pCeSlAyEr]

This the right chip ??

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=248330&pa=248330PS
simply No..

*EDIT*
I don't know if that chip will work or not.. hell ATMEGA8-16PC, ATMEGA8-16PI, ATMEGA8-16PJ or ATMEGA8-16PU may all work seeing how similar they are... don't know until someone test them..

[easye1161]

Can someone please post exactly what settings should be used for TwinAvr (or another Windows avr programmer)? Thanks a lot.

[seanneko]

Doesn't that store that he mentioned on the Chiip site (http://www.reichelt.de/) ship overseas?

I don't speak German, but it appears to have a list of countries when you reach the order checkout page and enter your address.

[pCeSlAyEr]

---From Radio Shack

Programmer

276-1547 ($1.89) 25 Position Male Solder D-Sub Connector
276-1549 ($1.79) 9- and 25-Position Non Shielded D-Sub Connector Hood
271-1313 ($0.99) 220 Ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5 (Get Two)
272-1027 ($1.19) 47µF 35V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor

Chip
272-1069 ($1.29) 0.1µF 50V 10% PC-Mount Capacitor (100nF Capacitror - 2 in pkg)
276-0026 ($1.29) 3mm Red LED (2 in pkg)

--- From Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com) - thanks dwrecording

556-ATMEGA8-16PU ($5.60) ATMEGA8-16PU Chip
571-3902622 ($0.20) Tyco IC socket 28 pin economy tin (need 2)

The IC socket is the economy version. Feel free to get a better one....

I don't think Mouser has the chips in stock. Someone else can find out the lead time to get them, or a different supplier.

Enjoy!
you forgot the 120ohm resistor between the LED and cap.. but you could just use a 220ohm like he used in the pic..

[pCeSlAyEr]

If anyone is ordering a batch of these ATMEGA8-16PU chips PM me if you are willing to part with one...

[easye1161]

Next to nothing is available online...but nearest I can tell by reading through the datasheet, the only difference between the PI and the PU models of this chip is that the PU model uses a Pb free packaging alternative for compliance with European standards. I believe the PI is the non-European model.

[Watch]

Hi,

I'haved made boards (typons) for WiiSKAS, ChiiP & Atmega8/88 programmer, based on this topic (http://www.elotrolado.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=712303), and this site.

Could someone verify if they are wright, please ?



NB : Check the shematics before using it, i'm still note sure they got no mystakes. I wait for yours confirmations. ;)

[easye1161]

OK did a little more research and I believe my initial assumption was correct. PC = commercial version (0-70 degree Celsius operation range), PI = industrial version (-40-85 degrees Celsius), and PU = environmentally friendly version of the PI chip for Europe's more strict hazardous substance laws. Any of these 3 should work perfectly well with Cadex's code.

[Xenogears V]

:eek: It seems indeed simple and economic!.

[robin44]

Hi,

I'haved made boards (typons) for WiiSKAS, ChiiP & Atmega8/88 programmer, based on this topic (http://www.elotrolado.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=712303), and this site.

Could someone verify if they are wright, please ?



NB : Check the shematics before using it, i'm still note sure they got no mystakes. I wait for yours confirmations. ;)

Thanks for this, can't check this yet but one idea. Why not to add a DB-9 connector on Whiskas and Chiip boards as we can switch between these two mods ? ;)

[Watch]

Thanks for this, can't check this yet but one idea. Why not to add a DB-9 connector on Whiskas and Chiip boards as we can switch between these two mods ? ;)

The fives uppers points (CIOVG) are there for that,
to connect a home-made 5 pins connector. I modify the pins alignment to correspond to the solder points for each mod. So a simple cable switch will do the trick. ;)

Adding DB-9 connectors is another possibility (more expensive). :D

[SilverFox]

awesome. Hope the code will be updated and became better

[tpepsiman]

all we need now is a good tut with pics not diagrams

if there is a better tut well in more noob pics pm me plees or post it here

i find it easy-a with pics to go of than diagrams

[Watch]

Thanks for this, can't check this yet but one idea. Why not to add a DB-9 connector on Whiskas and Chiip boards as we can switch between these two mods ? ;)

DB-9 versions in progress. ;)

[Perkele]

I contacted the maker of this program and I'm waiting on a replay but I asked him was it possible to use a Viper GC Programmer with some soldering to make that the programmer for this project. Im waiting on his reply.
He'll sure be happy to receive such mails ...

[xghost360]

hi guys is this the chip there are only 2 flash memory at maplins here is the 1st
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=29028&criteria=atmega%208&doy=25m2

hers the other
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=29029&criteria=atmega%208&doy=25m2

i can get them today so any help would be great

[overawy]

That has way to many pins

I was looking at this one tho

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=29029&&source=14&doy=25m2

Maybe somebody can tell us if we could use this chip instead ?

EDIT : Sorry didn't realises you posted the other link, the top one has to many pins i'm intrested in the bottom one tho

[Perkele]

To the guys above me, if you can't tell a PIC16F from an Atmel8 chip, don't bother opening the Wii and solder in it.

ATMEGA8L-8PU 8-BIT MICRO 8K DIL-28 (RC) should be it. Shame i didn't find a place in NL that has it that cheap.
That's the 8Mhz version, you'll need ATMEGA8-16PU 8-BIT MICRO 8K DIL-28 (RC).
Check http://www.aavrs.nl/index.php?p=34 for a Dutch webshop with fair prices.

[xghost360]

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...ce=14&doy=25m2
yeah thats it

[tpepsiman]

this is so cool how is the testing ;)

dus it all work ok

[ivanli88]

Can use the ATmega8L TQFP ?

[AzCs]

"build your own open source Wii modchip"

Am I missing something here ??, I have seen the firmware, but where is the source ?

[Slowking]

Open source
This firmware used by the modchip is currently free, and will be open source very soon (I still have to clean the code up a bit, and I'm not sure yet about which license to use). That means you and other people will be able to improve Chiip - remove bugs, add more features etc.

-message extender-

[sunny5011]

can somebody tell me how to use an atmel 2313 to do this on wii and also include pictures on how to install on wii??

THANKS

[pehN]

I wonder if really every game works fine

[cdndave]

Openchip over at ps2-scene tested it and said it doesn't work... so far he is the only person I could find that actually tested it...

I have some ATMEGA on the way - should be here in a few days - they are hard to source within Canada that's for sure...

Dave

[Pacotera]

Openchip over at ps2-scene tested it and said it doesn't work... so far he is the only person I could find that actually tested it...

I have some ATMEGA on the way - should be here in a few days - they are hard to source within Canada that's for sure...

Dave

Hmm can you please the link?

[pCeSlAyEr]

Openchip over at ps2-scene tested it and said it doesn't work... so far he is the only person I could find that actually tested it...

I have some ATMEGA on the way - should be here in a few days - they are hard to source within Canada that's for sure...

Dave
I have one on the way aswell...

Link me to that post please..

[Pacotera]

http://www.ps2-scene.org/forums/wii-modchips/53042-chiip-opensourcemodchip-5euro-2.html?highlight=Chiip

Well , its just one person

[coadyj]

simply No..

*EDIT*
I don't know if that chip will work or not.. hell ATMEGA8-16PC, ATMEGA8-16PI, ATMEGA8-16PJ or ATMEGA8-16PU may all work seeing how similar they are... don't know until someone test them..

well the one in the picture is a atmega8-16pu Look it up.

[coadyj]

That has way to many pins

I was looking at this one tho

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=29029&&source=14&doy=25m2

Maybe somebody can tell us if we could use this chip instead ?

EDIT : Sorry didn't realises you posted the other link, the top one has to many pins i'm intrested in the bottom one tho

No, the scematics are compleatly wrong. 7 should be power, 8 should be ground.

edit: Typo

[h3xx3r]

for those in the U.K. looking for the ATMega8 the only places that sell it are
Farnell ( minimum spend of £20)
RS Components (Out Of Stock)
Rapid Electronics (£4.95 Delivery)

I'm gonna wait until the hex is available for an easier obtainable chip.

Oh & theres a chinese flea bay seller selling X5 for £7 + £3 P+P

[Watch]

I've made boards for :

- a WiiSKAS's support pcb with D-SUB9 (based on this) (http://www.elotrolado.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=712303)
- a ChiiP's support pcb with D-SUB9 (based on this) (http://chiip.dl.am/)
- a D-SUB25 ATmega8/88 programmer's pcb (based on this) (http://chiip.dl.am/)
- a Wii wiring cable with D-SUB9 for theses supports.

The extra strap in the WiiSKAS pcb is there in case of N3TKat reverse the pins 24 and 25 like he suggest yesterday.


NB : I've not test them yet, cause will have the components only in 2 days.
2> Don't hesitate to verify these circuits.
2> If you decide to build them, post us your results. :)

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/2140/p1010225ue7.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010225ue7.jpg) http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/4421/p1010227kp7.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010227kp7.jpg)

[Xboxmodder999]

"build your own open source Wii modchip"

Am I missing something here ??, I have seen the firmware, but where is the source ?
IF you actually read the whole thing.... He says that he hasn't released the source yet, because it has only been tested on his Wii, and is still in beta. Once it is no longer a beta, the source will be released.

[nazerine]

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=44048&Row=418479&Site=CA

Don't forget Digikey, they have all the components to build this. Good for us Canucks :)

[pCeSlAyEr]

well the one in the picture is a atmega8-16pu Look it up.
I knew that... I added it saying they all may work since the last letter is the temp range for operation... the chips are identical other then that..

[AzCs]

IF you actually read the whole thing.... He says that he hasn't released the source yet, because it has only been tested on his Wii, and is still in beta. Once it is no longer a beta, the source will be released.

IF you actually read all of these posts... you would have noticed that Slowking had already brought this to my attention immediatly after my post.

Goes to show, we are all human and can all make mistakes :rolleyes:

But thanks again, were all here for the same thing :)

[quocdo2005]

These are what I'm getting at www.futurlec.com

ITEM NAME DESCRIPTION QTY PRICE AMOUNT

1. ICS28N 28 Pin IC Socket - Narrow 2 $ 0.130 $ 0.26
2. ATMEGA8-16PC ATMega8 28-Pin 16MHz
8kb 8-bit Microcontroller 1 $ 4.500 $ 4.50
3. DSUBCH25 D-Sub 25 Pin Connector Hood 1 $ 0.450 $ 0.45
4. DSUBSCM25 25 Contact Male Solder Cup 1 $ 0.550 $ 0.55
5. R220R14W 220ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon
Film Resistor 7 $ 0.100 $ 0.70
6. C100UM 0.1uF 100V Mylar Capacitors 1 $ 0.120 $ 0.12
7. LED3R Red 3mm Round LED 1 $ 0.080 $ 0.08
8. R120R14W 120ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon
Film Resistor 1 $ 0.100 $ 0.10
9. C047U25E 47uF 25V Radial Electrolytic
Capacitor 1 $ 0.08 $ 0.08

Total price: $ 6.84 !!!

Note: The 0.1uF Capacitor is the same as 100nF Capacitor: 1000nF=1uF

[magind]

So, can anyone actually prove this is working? Has anyone heard of anyone ever seeing someone getting it to semi-work? Kinda?

[Xboxmodder999]

IF you actually read all of these posts... you would have noticed that Slowking had already brought this to my attention immediatly after my post.

Goes to show, we are all human and can all make mistakes :rolleyes:

But thanks again, were all here for the same thing :)
Haha, my mistake :)

[gboshort]

These are what I'm getting at www.futerlec.com

ITEM NAME DESCRIPTION QTY PRICE AMOUNT

1. ICS28N 28 Pin IC Socket - Narrow 2 $ 0.130 $ 0.26
2. ATMEGA8-16PC ATMega8 28-Pin 16MHz
8kb 8-bit Microcontroller 1 $ 4.500 $ 4.50
3. DSUBCH25 D-Sub 25 Pin Connector Hood 1 $ 0.450 $ 0.45
4. DSUBSCM25 25 Contact Male Solder Cup 1 $ 0.550 $ 0.55
5. R220R14W 220ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon
Film Resistor 7 $ 0.100 $ 0.70
6. C100UM 0.1uF 100V Mylar Capacitors 1 $ 0.120 $ 0.12
7. LED3R Red 3mm Round LED 1 $ 0.080 $ 0.08
8. R120R14W 120ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon
Film Resistor 1 $ 0.100 $ 0.10
9. C047U25E 47uF 25V Radial Electrolytic
Capacitor 1 $ 0.08 $ 0.08

Total price: $ 6.84 !!!

Note: The 0.1uF Capacitor is the same as 100nF Capacitor: 1000nF=1uF

Bad link....

[wak4444]

www.futurlec.com

[Tfizzle]

looks like he updated the site. Now he says to use ATmega8L. Check the site or read what he added below.

Important news
OMG. I awoke today, checked my inbox and was shocked by dozens of mails concerning Chiip.
Which reminds me: If you send me a mail, please be patient, an answer may currently take some time. I don't have that much time and there is some really urgent stuff do be done at the moment.

After I finally finished answering at least a few mails, two people told me via IRC that they already built it and it doesn't work with their Wii.
I have no clue yet if that's a real problem. Maybe they simply did something wrong, but I fear there's another problem. Damn, I guess that's what happens if don't test on different consoles and simply believe things work just because they work on your own Wii.
I really need some feedback now from people who already built it!

Anyway, I will use the emergency break now and say:
If you haven't started building things, better wait until I know if there is a real problem. Otherwise there's a good chance you'll build something that doesn't work just yet. You can already order the components if you want - that won't be lost money, you will definitely be able to build a working modchip using these components very soon.

If you have already built the chip: If it doesn't work and you're sure it's not your fault: sorry for the inconvenience. Your help is the best way to get this fixed soon though, as I don't have any other Wii's to test. Here's what you can do:

* There is an updated firmware version on this page. Try and see if it's different with that version. It's just minor changes though and even I don't believe they make much difference, but it's still worth a try.
* Try running the chip at a lower frequency. To do this, set the LOW fuse byte to values 0xE3, 0xE2, or 0xE1. Everything will take twice, four or eight times the time then, so if at 8Mhz the LED starts blinking after about 3 seconds, it will take up to 24 seconds at the lowest frequency. Is the high fuse byte set to 0xD9 by the way? It should be and it most probably is.
* Send me a mail (see bottom of the page) and give me some feedback! Nobody has told me via eMail yet if they were successful building Chiip or not. So if you've already build one, tell me if the chip works in your Wii or not, which chipset you have (DMS, D2A or D2B), and if it doesn't work, if the LED stays off/on or if it blinks. If it blinks, tell me the blinkcode: It should blink four times, each blink being short or long. So send me something like: Blinkcode short short long short. If you have any other hints, ideas etc. tell me.
* Send me a general mail that you're willing to help fixing the problem and I will probably find a way for you to do so ;-)

Next point: I wrote yesterday that you should take the ATmega8-16. If you haven't ordered/bought the ATmega8-16 yet, better take the ATmega8L instead. The ATmega8-16 is guaranteed to work with 4.5-5.5 Volt, but the Wii only provides 3.3V. Most ATmega8-16 including mine seem to work fine at that voltage though (at least when using lower clock speeds), but if you haven't ordered yet better take the ATmega8L which is guaranteed to work at 3.3V.

Well, after all that bad news, time for some good news that will answer two frequently asked questions too:

* A D2B compatible version should be available very soon, I think within a week
* A version using PICs should also be available soon. I did the code with the possibility of easily porting it to other architectures in mind, and porting it should be quite easy.
In fact There will probably be four versions soon that share the same codebase: Two microcontroller-based versions for AVR and PIC, and two PC-based versions for Linux and Windows that use the dvdtool cable. That way coders working on Chiip could be able to develop for Chiip using their PC, and when they're finished it should automatically work with the chip-based versions too.

How you can help
Some help would really be useful.

* If you think you can help testing the chip: Drop me a line
* If you're familiar with german law: Can you tell me if it's illegal in germany to do what I'm doing (releasing modchip firmware/code?) I think I remember there is some stupid new law that prohibits developing/using/owning "Hackertools", and I wonder if they can possibly judge me for what I'm doing because of that law. I'd sleep better if I knew it's okay what I'm doing.
* If you want to provide a nicer Chiip logo - submit your idea. The best suggestion will be chosen
* If you know a cheap shop to order the components in your country, tell me. Many people would like would appreciate it.
* If you think you can help in any other way, drop me a mail too.

[kneehighspy]

I don't know if anyone is using the .pdf i posted, but i've updated it to be current with the author's latest info.

i'll also post the updated version here if anyone needs it.


//current as of 02/26/07 - 19:10pm cst/usa

[tpepsiman]

can some one tell me the order codes for the chip and ic sockets form maplin in the uk plees


thanks

[chris_seaviewfc]

can some one tell me the order codes for the chip and ic sockets form maplin in the uk plees


thanks

no can do, maplin dont stock it. The other parts are too expensive.

[overawy]

can some one tell me the order codes for the chip and ic sockets form maplin in the uk plees


thanks


Try somewhere like rapid electronics, pretty cheap just have to pay 4.95 for delivery unfortunatly

[tpepsiman]

do thay have the ic sockets wots the order code for that

and wot chip do i need some links would be cool

uk plees

[easye1161]

As Tfizzle posted above, Cadex updated his tutorial to say we should use the lower voltage chip, the ATmega8L. The Wii outputs 3.3v, but the ATmega8 generally requires 4.5-5.5 volts. For those of you that already purchased the ATmega8 variety, an easy solution is to just power it by 3 AA batteries in series. My chip hasn't arrived yet, but since I'm going to be making this an external mod anyway, I'm just going to hook up the V and G wires on the chip to some rechargeable batteries with a switch to turn off the modchip when I don't need it instead of to the Wii's motherboard.

[vtrucco]

Maybe you can find 5V at some point in wii drive... ;)

[cdndave]

As Tfizzle posted above, Cadex updated his tutorial to say we should use the lower voltage chip, the ATmega8L. The Wii outputs 3.3v, but the ATmega8 generally requires 4.5-5.5 volts. For those of you that already purchased the ATmega8 variety, an easy solution is to just power it by 3 AA batteries in series. My chip hasn't arrived yet, but since I'm going to be making this an external mod anyway, I'm just going to hook up the V and G wires on the chip to some rechargeable batteries with a switch to turn off the modchip when I don't need it instead of to the Wii's motherboard.

I had the exact same idea - but without the switch, Thanks!

Dave

[robin44]

Do you think it is possible to get the code on a modchip DVD upgrade like cy.....z and port it to atmel like chiip ???

[easye1161]

Before I get the batteries wired up...does anyone know of a 5V solder point on the Wii? I'm guessing no, but it's worth a shot.

[cdndave]

I'd really like to hear one success story besides the guy that authored the site :) I have a bunch of stuff on it's way, but still no success stories...

The programmer was easy enough to build :)

[jeff80]

Does a Jdm PIC programmer work to program the atmega chip or I need to do this programmer?

[cdndave]

Does a Jdm PIC programmer work to program the atmega chip or I need to do this programmer?

Nope need to build or buy a ATMEGA programmer - it's pretty easy to build!

Dave

[pl3x007]

Before I get the batteries wired up...does anyone know of a 5V solder point on the Wii? I'm guessing no, but it's worth a shot.


guess wot the usb ports run on :eek: :D :cool: :rolleyes:

[jeff80]

Maybe I can program it with a old avr6 wafer board used for dishnetwork?

[bgmnt]

guess wot the usb ports run on :eek: :D :cool: :rolleyes:

that's a great remark, there IS 5v somewhere on the wii, I think even in the dive (for the motor ?).

I'm going to search right now.

[carbo]

ATMega8L and 28 Pin DIP Socket Carrier can find in solarbotics (http://www.solarbotics.com/products/index.php?search_id=947) from Canada
and this is their Base Shipping Rates (http://www.solarbotics.com/products/shipping.php)

:)

[bgmnt]

Ok, there's 5V here :

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/1783/chiip5vfk7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Si if you connect your "ex V" wire to "V5v" (if you NOT have a "L" Atmel), should work better :D

[pCeSlAyEr]

Ok, there's 5V here :

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/1783/chiip5vfk7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Si if you connect your "ex V" wire to "V5v" (if you NOT have a "L" Atmel), should work better :D
SWEET... is it constant?

[bgmnt]

Tested with wii on "standby" (orange led) and "power on" (green), stays at 5v (only have a multimeter so .. it "looks like" constant ...) but as it's 5.00v, I think there's a Vreg overthere :)

[pCeSlAyEr]

Tested with wii on "standby" (orange led) and "power on" (green), stays at 5v (only have a multimeter so .. it "looks like" constant ...)
good enough for me :)

just waiting for my Atmega8-16PI

is that 3.3v constant aswell?

[bgmnt]

Me too, Goning to buy other stuff tomorrow to do the programmer :D

[bowser2]

Maybe I can program it with a old avr6 wafer board used for dishnetwork? nope,the avr uses an 8515,what are you testing anyways dude?im runnin 102!:)all the way with 97firebird bell aio autoroll and my card aint marked!

[pCeSlAyEr]

Me too, Goning to buy other stuff tomorrow to do the programmer :D
Just ordered a Atmega8L and a extra IC socket... just in case..

so my total so far is $30 for this so called $10 chip lol... but I can make 2 mods a reality:D

[pl3x007]

that's a great remark, there IS 5v somewhere on the wii, I think even in the dive (for the motor ?).

I'm going to search right now.
ye probably standards for dvd drives are 12v and 5v thats why if you put a connectivity kit to a 360 wrong way it bricks it cus u send 12v to motor hehe

[Sepioth]

Surely someone here has gotten these parts by now and tested this to actually work right??

I don't feel like wasting my money of stuff I may never need.

[EdGe7]

Surely someone here has gotten these parts by now and tested this to actually work right??

I don't feel like wasting my money of stuff I may never need.

There's an update on his site... it appears that four if not five people have gotten this to work.

http://chiip.dl.am/

Either way, it sounds like fun and I have ordered my components and just waiting for them to get here.

EdGe7

[kneehighspy]

I don't know if anyone is using the .pdf i posted, but i've updated it to be current with the author's latest info.

i'll also post the updated version here if anyone needs it.


//current as of 02/26/07 - 19:10pm cst/usa

[Tfizzle]

There's an update on his site... it appears that four if not five people have gotten this to work.

http://chiip.dl.am/

Either way, it sounds like fun and I have ordered my components and just waiting for them to get here.

EdGe7


which chip did u end up going with? i orderd the parts last night and went with the atmega8l. was gonna get the atmega8-16 but decided no in the end. now im wondering if i should order it also....

[Xboxmodder999]

A guy on GBAtemp also got it working.

I'm getting this just to mess around with, eventhough I am likely getting the WiiKey. For all the parts needed(for both the chip and the programmer) it is less then $11 shipped from www.futurlec.com.

[gr04ts]

@watch: The extra strap in the WiiSKAS pcb is there in case of N3TKat reverse the pins 24 and 25 like he suggest yesterday.

What do you mean exactly with this???


:confused:

[EdGe7]

which chip did u end up going with? i orderd the parts last night and went with the atmega8l. was gonna get the atmega8-16 but decided no in the end. now im wondering if i should order it also....

I have two of each coming... I am not one to take chances on things... I like to have everything with me at one time in case something fails. This chip will probably easily cost me more than the 40 or 50 dollars the pre-built chips cost, but my enjoyment is worth the price.:D

I should hopefully have everything by Wednesday.

EdGe7

[easye1161]

Excellent work finding the 5V solder point bgmnt. Just out of curiosity, does anyone know what chip the WiiKey is based on?

[Tfizzle]

I have two of each coming... I am not one to take chances on things... I like to have everything with me at one time in case something fails. This chip will probably easily cost me more than the 40 or 50 dollars the pre-built chips cost, but my enjoyment is worth the price.:D

I should hopefully have everything by Wednesday.

EdGe7

haha i was gonna do the same until i figured out how much shipping was from futurlec.com. they are located in asia and im in nebraska. sure they have standard post shipping but that takes 1-2 weeks. so i upgraded to express.

im just like you though, i dont care about the price. just want to make it myself.

[bgmnt]

In fact I'm not sure it's a good Idea to power the chip with 5v, because the chip will output 5v too, where the voltage should be 3.3v, and this can destroy the wii dvd drive controller :/ (is the parallel port of the PC 0/3.3v or 0/5v ?)

[badzoo]

I have built and installed Chiip (ATmega8L-8, DMS), seems to work ok with backups (I tried Tony Hawk), but I could not make original Wii discs to work. It doesnt support original discs with current Chiip firmware (1.0 beta 2) I got this reply from author:


Hi & thank you very much for your mail.

I fear you're right - Original discs didn't work when I just tried to run them. Damn! I was so busy with testing backup copies that I forgot about original discs...
Well, you can expect that a bugfixed version will appear within a few days. Until then, there is probably no other alternative than removing the chip to run original discs :-(

Regards,
Cadex

[nexx]

Ok, im interested in doing this, seems pretty fun though obviously ill wait a few days. I just want to get confirmation on a few parts:

is this (http://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.aspx?&tier1=Electronic+Components&tier2=Micros+%26+Crystals&tier3=Atmel+Micros&tier4=ATmega+8-bit+AVR+Microcontrollers&moduleno=77086) the "ATMEGA8L-8PU 8-BIT MICRO 8K DIL-28 (RC)" the right one to use and i assume that this (http://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.aspx?&tier1=Cables+%26+Connectors&tier2=Connectors+-+Multipole&tier3=DIL+Sockets&tier4=Low+profile+DILIC+sockets&moduleno=63772) is the right socket, the "28 PIN 0.3 LOW PROFILE SOCKET (RC)" one.

All the other parts seem pretty basic and can be gotten from local electronics stores or ebay.

[pCeSlAyEr]

In fact I'm not sure it's a good Idea to power the chip with 5v, because the chip will output 5v too, where the voltage should be 3.3v, and this can destroy the wii dvd drive controller :/ (is the parallel port of the PC 0/3.3v or 0/5v ?)
Parallel port has no power output :/ you have to steal power from the Data/Control Lines

so up to 2.4v@2.6mA per data pin but you can pull 4.5 - 5v@ 1mA

you can sucessfully steal +5v if you link the pins together

[bgmnt]

Parallel port has no power output :/ you have to steal power from the Data/Control Lines

so up to 2.4v@2.6mA per data pin but you can pull 4.5 - 5v@ 1mA

you can sucessfully steal +5v if you link the pins together

In fact I want to know if with the "softmod" wich uses the parallel port, the computer sends 3.3v or 5v to the wii ?

[pCeSlAyEr]

In fact I want to know if with the "softmod" wich uses the parallel port, the computer sends 3.3v or 5v to the wii ?
are we sure the ATmega8 outputs 5V when connected to 5v? doesn't it depend on how we set the fuse rating?

I'm looking into the parallel port cheapmod...

[vtrucco]

Actually, my parallel port send 4.7v :p

[bgmnt]

Actually, my parallel port send 4.7v :p
Okay, so it does not destroys the Wii :D

[pCeSlAyEr]

Actually, my parallel port send 4.7v :p
ok beaten to it... so hows the cable woking out for you?

good?

[bgmnt]

As I said, we can use 2 1n4148 diodes in serie to reduce the voltage to 3.8v.

But powering the chip with 5w does not eliminates the fact that CLK & IN from the Wii still at 3.3v :/

[vtrucco]

Yes, awesome, but I only use one diode at pin 14 (input) and a 33pf capacitor between pin 1 and gnd.

Edit: BTW, my parallel port is in ECP mode.

[bgmnt]

Mine is 4.5v and no diode from PC to Wii...

[vtrucco]

As I said, we can use 2 1n4148 diodes in serie to reduce the voltage to 3.8v.

But powering the chip with 5w does not eliminates the fact that CLK & IN from the Wii still at 3.3v :/

It doesn't matter... the logical level "1" is reached for something between 2.5v and 5.5v and logical level "0" between 0v and 1v. Of course this values may vary from chip to chip.

Sorry for the bad english :P

[pCeSlAyEr]

As I said, we can use 2 1n4148 diodes in serie to reduce the voltage to 3.8v.

But powering the chip with 5w does not eliminates the fact that CLK & IN from the Wii still at 3.3v :/
can you test CLK & IN with a multimeter for me or have you already done so?

[bgmnt]

Never done it but all modchips are using 3.3v, ithink there's a reason ;)

btw I can't do this with my meter because it has no "max" function, should use a scope to see if it's 3.3 or 5v :)

[pCeSlAyEr]

Never done it but all modchips are using 3.3v, ithink there's a reason ;)

btw I can't do this with my meter because it has no "max" function, should use a scope to see if it's 3.3 or 5v :)
if you mean on the Wii.. seeing how alot of chips can run at sub 3.3v so why not just use whats supplied... not to mention pricing and the location makes for an easy quick solder solution..

[pCeSlAyEr]

well anyway the ATmega8-16p series should work fine @ 3.3v anyway... its just undocumented... it should perform just like the ATmega8L at that voltage..

[Slowking]

Never done it but all modchips are using 3.3v, ithink there's a reason ;)
The Qoob Pro used 5V.

[Pacotera]

well anyway the ATmega8-16p series should work fine @ 3.3v anyway... its just undocumented... it should perform just like the ATmega8L at that voltage..

Glad to hear that cause after 2 hours searching i could only find the ATMega8-16PU.... the 8L i didnt find anywhere

Will try with that, id doesnt work will try using the 5v pad :D

[pCeSlAyEr]

Glad to hear that cause after 2 hours searching i could only find the ATMega8-16PU.... the 8L i didnt find anywhere

Will try with that, id doesnt work will try using the 5v pad :D
the Wii should have a tolerance up to 5v wich explains why the modcheap parallel cable works....

Just don't quote me on that, I'm still waiting on my chips:o

[easye1161]

For those looking to use the ATmega8 with the 5v soldering point or with batteries, don't bother. I found a detail data sheet that specified that the lowest value for an input of '1' is 4.0v if the Vcc is 5v. Since the input soldering points we are using are 3.3v at max, the ATmega's inputs would all be read as 0. If that's not an ineffective modchip, I dunno what is.

Edit: I just found that high values are also output at a MINIMUM of 4v. If we are saying that the dvd drive can only take 3.3v, this could definitely potentially fry our boards.

[drowen0]

I just chipped my wii using chiip on a ATMEGA8-16PU which I bought from rapid. I used the 5V solder point and i'm pleased to say it works :D

[pCeSlAyEr]

For those looking to use the ATmega8 with the 5v soldering point or with batteries, don't bother. I found a detail data sheet that specified that the lowest value for an input of '1' is 4.0v if the Vcc is 5v. Since the input soldering points we are using are 3.3v at max, the ATmega's inputs would all be read as 0. If that's not an ineffective modchip, I dunno what is.
so your saying we need a logic converter to go from 5v to 3.3v?

[pCeSlAyEr]

I just chipped my wii useing this wii on a ATMEGA8-16PU which I bought from rapid using the 5V solder point and i'm pleased to say it works :D
I wonder if we can get the voltage coming from the I and C pins on this chip when running at 5v...

[drowen0]

I wonder if we can get the voltage coming from the I and C pins on this chip when running at 5v...

Do you want me to see if I can measure it?

[pCeSlAyEr]

Do you want me to see if I can measure it?
sure if you know how to... Don't want you to mess it up if its working...

also if you could be so kind and try the 3.3v point on this chip aswell.. and measure

[drowen0]

sure if you know how to... Don't want you to mess it up if its working...

also if you could be so kind and try the 3.3v point on this chip aswell.. and measure

ok when running at 5V the pd across pins V and G is 4.96V, I and G is 3.33V, C and G is 4.13V and O and G is 4.05V.

I'll have to try connecting it to the 3V pin later

[Pacotera]

ok when running at 5V the pd across pins V and G is 4.96V, I and G is 3.33V, C and G is 4.13V and O and G is 4.05V.

I'll have to try connecting it to the 3V pin later
Will wait for that too :D

[pCeSlAyEr]

ok when running at 5V the pd across pins V and G is 4.96V, I and G is 3.33V, C and G is 4.13V and O and G is 4.05V.

I'll have to try connecting it to the 3V pin later
good sh!t..;)

[bgmnt]

ok when running at 5V the pd across pins V and G is 4.96V, I and G is 3.33V, C and G is 4.13V and O and G is 4.05V.

I'll have to try connecting it to the 3V pin later

And without any mod, what voltages are there here ?
3.3 or 5v ?

[drowen0]

ok with the chip in connected to 3.3v it also works :D and the voltages are
across:
v and g 3.32v
i and g 3.32v
c and g 3.32v
o and g 3.26v

Do you want me to measure them with no chip in?

[pCeSlAyEr]

ok with the chip in connected to 3.3v it also works :D and the voltages are
across:
v and g 3.32v
i and g 3.32v
c and g 3.32v
o and g 3.26v

Do you want me to measure them with no chip in?
even better!!

yea... i'll take a base voltage

[EdGe7]

ok with the chip in connected to 3.3v it also works :D and the voltages are
across:
v and g 3.32v
i and g 3.32v
c and g 3.32v
o and g 3.26v

Do you want me to measure them with no chip in?

This is definately something to be concerend about... if the voltaged being sent to the DVDROM controller chip are higher than what is specified to go... with time that chip could go out and you could have a dead Wii. I would think that some kind of modification will need to be made to the output pins of the Chiip to get the voltages down to 3.3 but the chip working itself at 5v... or just get the AtMega8L chip.

EdGe7

[pCeSlAyEr]

This is definately something to be concerend about... if the voltaged being sent to the DVDROM controller chip are higher than what is specified to go... with time that chip could go out and you could have a dead Wii. I would think that some kind of modification will need to be made to the output pins of the Chiip to get the voltages down to 3.3 but the chip working itself at 5v... or just get the AtMega8L chip.

EdGe7
true at 5v, but this is from the ATmega8-16PU running from 3.33v... I don't see why it would be dangerous seeing how its matching the voltage near exact...

its performance should be identical in nearly every aspect to the ATmega8L when running at 3.33v.

I'm still waiting for the voltage without the chip in..

[drowen0]

Ok the base voltages are

Across:
i and g 3.35v
c and g 3.27v
o and g 3.31v

[Pacotera]

Ok the base voltages are

Across:
i and g 3.35v
c and g 3.27v
o and g 3.31v

Great, so running the atmega at 3.3 its the way to go :D

[pCeSlAyEr]

Ok the base voltages are

Across:
i and g 3.35v
c and g 3.27v
o and g 3.31v
thanks a million dude... I think this is all we needed to know..

3.3v power is the way to go for ATmega8-16P chips..

[bgmnt]

Yeah :)

In fact it has been reported by some users that some Atmega8-16 "not L" does not work at 3.3v, that was the problem.

[pCeSlAyEr]

Yeah :)

In fact it has been reported by some users that some Atmega8-16 "not L" does not work at 3.3v, that was the problem.
well I don't see how thats possible... those users should retry flashing the chip and check the length of there wiring... probably something else is wrong because this sh!t works...

*EDIT*
I guess thats what happens when people are misinformed or think they know something about whats going on and just don't...

[bumpi]

can someone explain or even better show some pictures of how I connect R1-R5 and C5 between (X4-X8 and X25) and (pin 7 and 8).
And also is the short leg on C1 the negative(-) one.

[easye1161]

well I don't see how thats possible... those users should retry flashing the chip and check the length of there wiring... probably something else is wrong because this sh!t works...

*EDIT*
I guess thats what happens when people are misinformed or think they know something about whats going on and just don't...

You can include yourself in that group of people. The official specs of the ATmega8 say its operating voltage ranges from 4.5-5.5v. The ATmega8L is the exact same chip, except it has passed testing for voltage down to 2.7v after production. Many of the ATmega8 chips did not pass this testing, and therefore won't work with 3.3v.

[carbo]

Anybody know is that possible for me to put an on and off switch to turn the chiip off when any time I need. And if it is possible which wire should I put switch on. Sorry to ask such stupid question. :p

[nokaktsawa]

According to page 292 of the official chips datasheet:

http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc2486.pdf

I guess you're right easye1161. In fact, I'm not an electrician but I don't know how an atmega8 (non L) could work with 3.3v.
Maybe it works, but can have some issues anytime.
Better use an atmega8L instead i guess...
Is there anybody who used an atmega8L?

[Watch]

Supports & programmer ready. :D

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/2140/p1010225ue7.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010225ue7.jpg) http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/4421/p1010227kp7.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010227kp7.jpg)

But still haven't ATmega8. :(

[Pacotera]

Hmm i builted the programmer and when tried to use the TwinAVR i get a error saying

Programming enable sequence not sucessfull
LPT and programmer type correct?

maybe something is wront with the programmer so im gonna check it but what soft are you guys using to burn the atmega on windows?



Pacote

[wak4444]

can someone explain or even better show some pictures of how I connect R1-R5 and C5 between (X4-X8 and X25) and (pin 7 and 8).
And also is the short leg on C1 the negative(-) one.

Yup... Long led = + and short one = -

[EdGe7]

I just got an email back from Cadex regarding the 5v issue... seems he will update his page with a Warning shortly.

EdGe7

[easye1161]

According to page 292 of the official chips datasheet:

http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc2486.pdf

I guess you're right easye1161. In fact, I'm not an electrician but I don't know how an atmega8 (non L) could work with 3.3v.
Maybe it works, but can have some issues anytime.
Better use an atmega8L instead i guess...
Is there anybody who used an atmega8L?

*SOME* non-L chips work because the certification process to be an L-branded chip requires successful testing down to 2.7v. To be a non-L chip, it must only go down to 4.5v, but could be lower. This means that many non-L chips may possibly work for 3.3v, but there is no guarantee.

[Pacotera]

So, anyone can help me?

Checked all the possible connections with the programmer, nothing wrong... using a 47uf/25v capacitator no the right place, no bridge so wth this is not working with twinavr?

[Pacotera]

Fixed... you have to install the userport.sys port driver and configure it first to grant acess to the program

so anyone willing to teach me to upload teh hex to the chip and setting the low fuses ? :D

[pCeSlAyEr]

*SOME* non-L chips work because the certification process to be an L-branded chip requires successful testing down to 2.7v. To be a non-L chip, it must only go down to 4.5v, but could be lower. This means that many non-L chips may possibly work for 3.3v, but there is no guarantee.
I see what your saying, but after hours on google I found more and more projects running the ATMega8-16P family at 3.3v.

perhaps the 4.5 minimum is actually for maintaing the 16mhz clock... seeing as how the chip uses only 3v @ 4mhz...

*EDIT*
after rereading your post... Isn't it the exact opposite of how you are saying? they test up to the maximum of the chip and the ones that are unstable at the higher voltage and clock get marked lower... just like with a CPU

or am I wrong here?

[tpepsiman]

has some one got a good tut more detail and pics that would be cool

pm or post here plees

[Pacotera]

Just burned an ATmega8-16PU

working fine with 3.3v here :D

Boouuya!!

[easye1161]

@ pacotera - why not just use avrdude like Cadex suggests in his tutorial? It's a lot simpler, especially when he spells out exactly what commands you need. Download the avrdude release that comes packages with winavr. It works very nicely with almost all Windows systems.

@ pCeSlAyEr - no, it's not quite like a processor. All the chips that get released are capable of the same maximum voltage. The only difference is stability with lower voltages. Also, interesting theory with the 4.5-5.5v only being needed to maintain higher clock rates...you may be onto something.

Edit - nevermind, I guess you figured out twinavr on your own pacotera.

[Pacotera]

@ pacotera - why not just use avrdude like Cadex suggests in his tutorial? It's a lot simpler, especially when he spells out exactly what commands you need. Download the avrdude release that comes packages with winavr. It works very nicely with almost all Windows systems.

@ pCeSlAyEr - no, it's not quite like a processor. All the chips that get released are capable of the same maximum voltage. The only difference is stability with lower voltages. Also, interesting theory with the 4.5-5.5v only being needed to maintain higher clock rates...you may be onto something.

Edit - nevermind, I guess you figured out twinavr on your own pacotera.

i actually used avrdude :D and twinavr to set the fuses (dont know WHY but if i try to set lfuse with avrdude i get a nasty writing error)

[hugoliva]

Supports & programmer ready. :D

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/2140/p1010225ue7.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010225ue7.jpg) http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/4421/p1010227kp7.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010227kp7.jpg)

But still haven't ATmega8. :(
WOW! that's a sweet job you've done there, care to share how you did it?

[easye1161]

@ Watch - Nice PCB work for the different components. What did you use to make them?

[wak4444]

@ Watch - Nice PCB work for the different components. What did you use to make them?

Google : Make PCB

[pCeSlAyEr]

wow@homemade PCB... thats some crazy stuff right here (http://max8888.orcon.net.nz/pcbs.htm)..


also another program you could use to flash these chips is PonyProg (http://www.lancos.com/prog.html)... it should work fine... ATmega8 is a supported chip...

[Pacotera]

wow@homemade PCB... thats some crazy stuff right here (http://max8888.orcon.net.nz/pcbs.htm)..


also another program you could use to flash these chips is PonyProg (http://www.lancos.com/prog.html)... it should work fine... ATmega8 is a supported chip...

Ponyprog didnt work here with the programmer, maybe i have to install something elase but i only got communicatino error (-16)

[ghosthk]

You can include yourself in that group of people. The official specs of the ATmega8 say its operating voltage ranges from 4.5-5.5v. The ATmega8L is the exact same chip, except it has passed testing for voltage down to 2.7v after production. Many of the ATmega8 chips did not pass this testing, and therefore won't work with 3.3v.
maybe many of the ATmega8 can't pass testing@2.7V & 8MHz operating frequency, but how about 3.3V & lower frequency?
As chiip's author said, only very low frequency needed for chiip(I have asked him by email).
Don't forget the max operating frequency and lowest voltage of ATmega8 is 16MHz@4.4V(ATmega8L is 8MHz@2.7V), it may shows that 4.4V is only needed when ATmega8 is working at 16MHz.

If you don't have any problem with your ATmega8@3.3V, It's unnecessary to replace with ATmega8L

[pCeSlAyEr]

Ponyprog didnt work here with the programmer, maybe i have to install something elase but i only got communicatino error (-16)
you setup ponypog to use the parallel port and whatnot?

[tpepsiman]

right its been frying my head

how do i tell witch leg is the + on the electrolytic capacitor
eg: long leg + short leg -

as mine is all black no markings on it :confused:

o and can sone one post a pic of the programmer before thay closed it
just so i can see mine is the same

[mrdan]

right its been frying my head

how do i tell witch leg is the + on the electrolytic capacitor
eg: long leg + short leg -

as mine is all black no markings on it :confused:

o and can sone one post a pic of the programmer before thay closed it
just so i can see mine is the same

long leg is (+)

[Watch]

WOW! that's a sweet job you've done there, care to share how you did it?

Look this post. ;)
http://forums.maxconsole.net/showpost.php?p=430596&postcount=86

[tpepsiman]

thanks alot m8

[pCeSlAyEr]

Look this post. ;)
http://forums.maxconsole.net/showpost.php?p=430596&postcount=86
I think he meant how you fabricated the PCBs

[pCeSlAyEr]

maybe many of the ATmega8 can't pass testing@2.7V & 8MHz operating frequency, but how about 3.3V & lower frequency?
As chiip's author said, only very low frequency needed for chiip(I have asked him by email).
Don't forget the max operating frequency and lowest voltage of ATmega8 is 16MHz@4.4V(ATmega8L is 8MHz@2.7V), it may shows that 4.4V is only needed when ATmega8 is working at 16MHz.

If you don't have any problem with your ATmega8@3.3V, It's unnecessary to replace with ATmega8L
Exactly... I wish there was a person on this board with more knowledge on the ATmega8-16P series..

[Pacotera]

Anyone... i installed the led internally on the DB25 plastic cover...

its supposed to light when you are writing to the chip?

Mine doesnt light when you write , but after , after you write it keeps lighting in some sort os sequente

so the led is just for testing if the code writed is correct?

[tpepsiman]

so witch chip do i need as im a bit confused with all this voltage talk
and links would be cool to

[Pacotera]

I tested 5 Atmega8-16PU and all worked fine


ans GREAT NEWS

the beta 2 apparently has the dvd speed fixed cause im playing warioware WITHOU any problem on the cutscenes and RAYMAN worked 100% here...

will try cod3 soon

[mrdan]

Anyone... i installed the led internally on the DB25 plastic cover...

its supposed to light when you are writing to the chip?

Mine doesnt light when you write , but after , after you write it keeps lighting in some sort os sequente

so the led is just for testing if the code writed is correct?

As far as I know, the LED is supposed to go onto the chip itself. It is to serve as a diagnostic to let you know if the chip is working properly or not when it is installed in the Wii. Behavior of the LED is irrelevant when it is in the programmer. It will probably flash because it is receiving power but not able to talk to the Wii.

[mrdan]

so witch chip do i need as im a bit confused with all this voltage talk
and links would be cool to

You should purchase a Atmega8L-8P*.

[tpepsiman]

thanks m8

so dus that one defiantly work

[Pacotera]

As far as I know, the LED is supposed to go onto the chip itself. It is to serve as a diagnostic to let you know if the chip is working properly or not when it is installed in the Wii. Behavior of the LED is irrelevant when it is in the programmer. It will probably flash because it is receiving power but not able to talk to the Wii.

Hmm it was after i flashed that the led start working, so it will be useful to see if the chip was flashed right cause when the chip is blank the led doesnt light at alll :D

[bgmnt]

Just bought everything excepted the Atmels (ebay) for 6 mods + programmer : 6.40€
5 Atmels : 9.90€ on ebay :D

Total ~3€ per modchip :D

Also i'm in contact with the author of the chiip, he told me that a major update based on a better code will come soon (D2b support, better compatibility & so on...)

[pCeSlAyEr]

Just bought everything excepted the Atmels (ebay) for 6 mods + programmer : 6.40€
5 Atmels : 9.90€ on ebay :D

Total ~3€ per modchip :D

Also i'm in contact with the author of the chiip, he told me that a major update based on a better code will come soon (D2b support, better compatibility & so on...)
good deal... I saw an auction on ebay for 5 ATMega8-16PU's for $10 + $10 shipping... I should have got them..

Awesome on the beta update, but I'm wondering when he will release the source so that others can tweak/enhance the code..

I wouldnt mind looking at the code... not saying I could do anything with it, but whatever...

[cdndave]

good deal... I saw an auction on ebay for 5 ATMega8-16PU's for $10 + $10 shipping... I should have got them..

Awesome on the beta update, but I'm wondering when he will release the source so that others can tweak/enhance the code..

I wouldnt mind looking at the code... not saying I could do anything with it, but whatever...

I got 5 ATMega8-16 shipped to Canada for 17$ (and 45 mixed sockets for 5$)

Great deal - they shipped yesterday from China so should be here in a couple of weeks :( I have a V1 wiinja until then.

Glad to see some success stories.

Dave

[orb_nsc]

This really appeals to my inner nerd. Once he gets the code a bit more stable (in particular, getting original Wii discs to run) I'm going to give this a try.

[wucash]

i also made my chiip yesterday but had some problems to
write on it.

After some help i did it but it wastn working.

Today i found a nice Batch file to write the chip on
http://www.gamefreax-forum.de/files/ChiipWin32.zip

with that i can now run my wii-sports backup
choos a player and a game

but then i get allways an DRE - could it be a prob with the chip
or rather my backup?

verbatim writen 4x

[mrdan]

i also made my chiip yesterday but had some problems to
write on it.

After some help i did it but it wastn working.

Today i found a nice Batch file to write the chip on
http://www.gamefreax-forum.de/files/ChiipWin32.zip

with that i can now run my wii-sports backup
choos a player and a game

but then i get allways an DRE - could it be a prob with the chip
or rather my backup?

verbatim writen 4x

What burner did you use? Also, Wii Sports might just happen to have the same bug that CoD3 and R^3 have. Maybe we just haven't noticed because everyone already owns an original copy and hasn't attempted to load a backup of Wii Sports.

[Blaskarn]

A programmer is made and the ATmega8L-8PU is about to have its components installed... :D
www.elfa.se has them in stock in Sweden. Partnr 73-672-20, 56 Skr (8$)

So, now I just have to wait for D2B support. :o

Big Thanks!!!!!!

[wucash]

im not sure, its a Vaio-notebook, but as the system-manager says it
is a "SONY DVD RW-D56A"

but in the meantime i don`t think its a prob with my wii or how i made th chip.

Its got to be sth like u told (COD, Ray..) because no matter which soprt i want to make... DRE, and only fi the match should begin.

so i hope i did everything allright and will check tomorow another game.

Anyway, im glad its now working with the 3V and i dont have to matter about my drive to get burne or sth.

Thanks

[Blaskarn]

I just flashed my ATmega8L with ChiipWin32. :D
Real great work there! The LED starts to flash too.. so I guess all is fine.

Still no need to install because I have a new Wii.

[biff]

just one question:

here are many people discussing how and if 5V perhaps brick their wiis dvd drive.

i dont have this problem if i can get my hands on a ATmega8L8, DIP version which is the chip that Cadex recomends on his site, because i can use the 3,3V pin and everything is just fine for me.

just some other chips that need 5V are perhaps dangerous for the drive.

RIGHT? :confused:

@Blaskarn
i think it is not significant if the LED is flashing while you flash the chip. you can see if all is good for you when the chip is installed in the wii and you turn it on ;)

[Slowking]

just one question:

here are many people discussing how and if 5V perhaps brick their wiis dvd drive.

i dont have this problem if i can get my hands on a ATmega8L8, DIP version which is the chip that Cadex recomends on his site, because i can use the 3,3V pin and everything is just fine for me.

just some other chips that need 5V are perhaps dangerous for the drive.

RIGHT? :confused:
right -message extender-

[OptiMyst]

Built the chiip today. Works fine. I'm using an Atmega8-16PU @3.3V (got everything from www.reichelt.de). The only problem I had was setting the lfuse with avrdude (under Windows XP). The command for the lfuse mentioned on cadex' chiip-page returned an error. The following command flashed the chip and set the lfuse in a single command, which worked fine:

avrdude -p m8 -c sp12 -U lfuse:w:0xE4:m -U flash:w:chiip_firmware_v1_0_beta_2.hex -v

A backup of Wii-Sports (PAL) worked fine. Burned it with Pioneer DVR-111L on Verbatim DVD-R with 4x-speed. I also successfully tested the wiikey setup-disc (only tested if it starts).
I think after powering up the wii it takes a few seconds until the chiip has patched the drive. After that it works fine.

[mrdan]

im not sure, its a Vaio-notebook, but as the system-manager says it
is a "SONY DVD RW-D56A"

but in the meantime i don`t think its a prob with my wii or how i made th chip.

Its got to be sth like u told (COD, Ray..) because no matter which soprt i want to make... DRE, and only fi the match should begin.

so i hope i did everything allright and will check tomorow another game.

Anyway, im glad its now working with the 3V and i dont have to matter about my drive to get burne or sth.

Thanks

Laptop burners are notoriously bad at writing. Do yourself a favor and get an external burner. Back in my qoob days I tried using my laptop burner, but to no avail. You will get DRE with them no matter what.

[biff]

right -message extender-

aha :) OK thanks

but then i dont understand why dont you use a ATmega8L8, DIP version? :confused:

OptiMyst for example (two posts above)... you ordered at reichelt.de - they have the right chip that runs on 3,3V. does it have any handycaps?

[Slowking]

They probably ordered before Cadex changed the recomendation on his page.
The ATmega8L8 doesn't have any handycaps, it's the same as the ATMega8-16 except that it's guaranteed that it works at 3,3V,

[biff]

thank you again, that makes sense ;)
i didnt know that he has changed the recomendation

[OptiMyst]

but then i dont understand why dont you use a ATmega8L8, DIP version? :confused:

OptiMyst for example (two posts above)... you ordered at reichelt.de - they have the right chip that runs on 3,3V. does it have any handycaps?

I orderd this sunday afternoon and I saw cadex' change of the chip on monday morning. I phoned reichelt.de on monday-morning to change my order, but my order was already processed (they are really fast, at least within Germany). So I just tried if it works with the chip I got.

[sunny5011]

hi i got the atmega 8-16pc chip when i try to burn the hex file or configure the settings it always says there is no chip or no connection please help

i am using a homemade programmer i made and its a little bit different than the one cadex tells you to use i checked to see if everything was good with a meter and it was

please help

[pCeSlAyEr]

hi i got the atmega 8-16pc chip when i try to burn the hex file or configure the settings it always says there is no chip or no connection please help

i am using a homemade programmer i made and its a little bit different than the one cadex tells you to use i checked to see if everything was good with a meter and it was

please help
when you say you made it a little different... explain..

also try the batch file (ChiipWin32.zip)a few pages back and tell us the results.. make sure you install giveio.sys first so the program can interface with the LPT...

[sunny5011]

hi i cant try avrdudewin32 because dont have lnux or whatever and dont know how to compile it or whatever

wen i said i made it differently i made it on an electrical board and put the socket on and stuff i didnt put a 100nf capacitator is that needed??

o ya wen i get it to work do i put it on the 5v point or the 3v point??

thx

[pCeSlAyEr]

hi i cant try avrdudewin32 because dont have lnux or whatever and dont know how to compile it or whatever

wen i said i made it differently i made it on an electrical board and put the socket on and stuff i didnt put a 100nf capacitator is that needed??

o ya wen i get it to work do i put it on the 5v point or the 3v point??

thx
wow... umm..:confused: you probably shouldn't even be attempting to do this if you dont know computer basics..

the batch file runs in windows... did you even attempt it?

and the 100nF(0.1uF) cap is not needed, but recommended when using IC's.. you wont know the outcome till u try

[sunny5011]

i kno a lot more about it and so i tried the batch file and it works just that not for me because iwhen i do it is says theres no device.

help!!!!!!!!!!!

thx

[orb_nsc]

Does anyone know where you would put a switch on this mod to disable it (so the Wii runs without it)? Which two points would you put the switch between? It seems practical to have a switch, since this thing is still in pretty early beta stages...

[pCeSlAyEr]

i kno a lot more about it and so i tried the batch file and it works just that not for me because iwhen i do it is says theres no device.

help!!!!!!!!!!!

thx
you have to run the install batch file first

[kneehighspy]

here is an updated .pdf version of the chiip website by cadex. it's current as of 02/28/07 21:05cdt

[pCeSlAyEr]

So I take it Wiiskas beta1 hex should work with Chiip aswell... :D

[easye1161]

i kno a lot more about it and so i tried the batch file and it works just that not for me because iwhen i do it is says theres no device.

help!!!!!!!!!!!

thx

Umm...do us all a favor and just buy a professionally made chip. If you NEED to do it yourself, just read through Cadex's site and these forums. Everything is spelled out soooo simply that there really shouldn't be any questions at all. If you get a no device error, it's obviously in the giveio.sys file, as the avrdude readme says, and has been said on these forums a couple times.

[easye1161]

Does anyone know where you would put a switch on this mod to disable it (so the Wii runs without it)? Which two points would you put the switch between? It seems practical to have a switch, since this thing is still in pretty early beta stages...

The easiest place for a switch would be on the V wire (or G if you would prefer). Another alternative is to make this an external mod using the DB-9 connectors like so many people have been doing. I didn't want to cut a hole in my wii so I just took a memory card slot out of an old Dreamcast controller and put the mod inside the memory card itself. I then used double sided tape to just attach the memory card holder to the side of the Wii. Now whenever I want to disable the mod, I just take out the memory card. If you went the DB-9 way, you could do the same thing...just unplug the dongle to take out the chip.

[wucash]

Laptop burners are notoriously bad at writing. Do yourself a favor and get an external burner. Back in my qoob days I tried using my laptop burner, but to no avail. You will get DRE with them no matter what.


oh, thanks, for that info!

didnt't expect that, but hopefully u are right.

i will get a external burner and try again. :o

[pCeSlAyEr]

can anyone confirm Wiiskas B1 Atmega8.hex works with this mod? I have yet to try it..

and if it does... how much better does it run than the current Chiip hex?

im still waiting on my chips :(:( :(

[OptiMyst]

can anyone confirm Wiiskas B1 Atmega8.hex works with this mod? I have yet to try it..

I didn't test it, but I doubt it works. As far as I can see the pinout is different. OK, you could easily change the solderpoints on the socket.

[pCeSlAyEr]

I didn't test it, but I doubt it works. As far as I can see the pinout is different. OK, you could easily change the solderpoints on the socket.
the pinouts they show are for the ATmega88... they also have a hex for ATmega8

*EDIT*
I dunno you may be right..

[Pacotera]

if anyone wants i cant test the atmega8 hex, will see if the pinouts are the same then chiip later

[pCeSlAyEr]

if anyone wants i cant test the atmega8 hex, will see if the pinouts are the same then chiip later
that would be appreciated...

[bgmnt]

The wiiskas is using an external OSC no ?

I think wiiskas is currently (because it has original game support) better than chiip for those who has a pic AND an Atmel programmer.

For those who have nothing or just an Atmel programmer, chiip is better becauses it doesn't need for extra OSC and programmer is easier to make than a pic programmer.

Just waiting for my Atmels and for the major update to test :D

[Narcotic]

Let's hope that update comes out today, the chiip guy indicated original disc support wasn't difficult or impossible, just that he hadn't thought about it yet :D

[pCeSlAyEr]

Radioshack Part #272-1053 should work well as the 100nF CAP right? I have a good feelin my chips will be here today and I was looking at parts to pickup, but this cap seems off.

*EDIT*
ehh nvm it'll be fine... a bit larger then whats used, but whatever...


anyone know the string to set a low fuse @4mhz?

[Tfizzle]

my parts will be here today also. fedex says out for delivery.

[nexx]

Well i just installed everything just now and it seems to be working, the light comes on and everything. Also, when i try to load an original game is just comes up with some black error screen so i assume everything is ok.

Im in the process of making a backup at the moment so will report back after.

[Watch]

I've made boards for :

- a WiiSKAS's support pcb with D-SUB9 (based on this) (http://www.elotrolado.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=712303)
- a ChiiP's support pcb with D-SUB9 (based on this) (http://chiip.dl.am/)
- a D-SUB25 ATmega8/88 programmer's pcb (based on this) (http://chiip.dl.am/)
- a Wii wiring cable with D-SUB9 for theses supports.

The extra strap in the WiiSKAS pcb is there in case of N3TKat reverse the pins 24 and 25 like he suggest yesterday.


NB : I've not test them yet, cause will have the components only in 2 days.
2> Don't hesitate to verify these circuits.
2> If you decide to build them, post us your results. :)

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/2140/p1010225ue7.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010225ue7.jpg) http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/4421/p1010227kp7.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1010227kp7.jpg)

Hi,

For those who dowload my boards package (here) (http://forums.maxconsole.net/showpost.php?p=430596&postcount=86);
It works (programmer & sockets)!!! :D

To program the ATmega8 I use the archive posted here (http://forums.maxconsole.net/showpost.php?p=435386&postcount=210).

;)

I also made a socket for 12F629 mods (WiiFree/WiiSKAS/WiiNJA) I'll will update it soon, and I also add a 12F6xx Programmer. :D

[wucash]

oh, thanks, for that info!

didnt't expect that, but hopefully u are right.

i will get a external burner and try again. :o



YEAH!!!!


it works, my chiip works.

It was realy just the f* Vaio burner which was making the problems.

Yesterday i was opening everything an checking on and on.
My wii, the programmer, the LPT-Case my Chiip was placed...

today i bought a external burner and my chiip is working great.

And i had all so nice soldered....

anyway, i can play my backups now.


Thanks to all for the help and the support

[nexx]

Well i just installed everything just now and it seems to be working, the light comes on and everything. Also, when i try to load an original game is just comes up with some black error screen so i assume everything is ok.

Im in the process of making a backup at the moment so will report back after.

Ok i can confirm that it works!

For anyone else in the UK thinking of making one of these (and i would highly recommend doing so) heres the part list i used from rapidonline, you can search the part number to take you to the part.


Description Order Code Quantity
PK 100 220R 0.25W CF RESISTOR (RC) 62-0354 1
PK 100 120R 0.6W MF RESISTOR (RC) 62-2054 1
47U 25V RADIAL ELECTROLYTIC (RC) 11-0235 1
100N 2.5MM Y5V DIELEC.CERAMIC (RC) 08-0275 1
RED CYLINDRICAL 3MM LED (RC) 56-0300 1
25 WAY BLACK D CONNECTOR COVER (RC) 15-0225 1
25 WAY SOLDER LUG PLUG (RC) 15-0110 1
ATMEGA8L-8PU 8-BIT MICRO 8K DIL-28 (RC) 73-4300 1
28 PIN 0.3 LOW PROFILE SOCKET (RC) 22-0175 2


Comes to just over £4 if you collect the parts in person like me.

[KoopaTroopa]

Hi guys!

On the chiip mainpage, it says there were people who put disable switches on the Chiip.

Any idea how to do this? Which points go onto the switch?

Is there a link to schematics or some other diagram showing how this is done?

I'm interested in putting a switch on my Wii to manually disable the Chiip should I decide I want to.

Please advise!

[coldjim]

thanks nexx
i wanted to know before i got anything what the parts defo were
thanks a lot mate!

[nexx]

Im not sure exactly how to do it but i think if you put a switch between the wire connecting the ground pin and the ground pad it should work. You could also do the same thing with the 3.3v pad and pin but some people dont like doing this as the switch could have some uncovered metal parts that could lead to accidents.