D2Pro Alternate Install?

[Funkwheat]

Anyone seen any alternate install guides (legless perhaps?) for the D2Pro? I did find an "every other leg" guide, but haven't seen any legless ones. Obviously an Argon or D2Ckey guide could easily be tweaked to be used with the D2Pro, but was wondering if anyone had seen any already made?

[pskim]

Anyone seen any alternate install guides (legless perhaps?) for the D2Pro? I did find an "every other leg" guide, but haven't seen any legless ones. Obviously an Argon or D2Ckey guide could easily be tweaked to be used with the D2Pro, but was wondering if anyone had seen any already made?

I don't think no leg install exists. You have to connect the wires to the legs.

[redsquirrell]

There is a legless install to my knowledge. Have a look around http://psx-scene.com/forums in the d2pro area, someone may have posted it.

[Funkwheat]

I don't think no leg install exists. You have to connect the wires to the legs.

It's the same points as the D2ckey and the Argon (although less than the d2ckey) and no leg installs exist for both, so it's definitely possible. Thanks though ;)

[morinzo1978]

Use the legless argon, same points you just need to change the letters

[Cade]

There IS a legless install diagram for the D2Pro made by dCiSo from console-scene.info (he made the legless versions for the D2CKEY and Argon too). I'm going to use this method to solder my D2Pro as there is no need anymore to solder to the IC chips directly... luckily! Because of this I have the guts now to solder the chip myself :D

Keep in mind that this install is for the 15 wire solution. dCiSo will release a diagram shortly that will cover the 4 extra wires too (for region free mode) but in the meantime I think you can solder them just the way like the D2Pro team shows you in their official install diagram. Can someone confirm this?

Enjoy! If you are going to use this install method tell us how it went.

20303

[pskim]

I don't know where you got your information but there isn't any installation with no leg connection for the D2Ckey. There are no alternate via points for the 4 leg connections you need to make. Also, you should also give proper credit to the proper person. It's jmlacroix, not dCiSo who made the universal alternate install for the D2Ckey. dCiSo is only hosting the revised version of the universal alternate point pdf file.

[Funkwheat]

There IS a legless install diagram for the D2Pro made by dCiSo from console-scene.info (he made the legless versions for the D2CKEY and Argon too). I'm going to use this method to solder my D2Pro as there is no need anymore to solder to the IC chips directly... luckily! Because of this I have the guts now to solder the chip myself :D

Keep in mind that this install is for the 15 wire solution. dCiSo will release a diagram shortly that will cover the 4 extra wires too (for region free mode) but in the meantime I think you can solder them just the way like the D2Pro team shows you in their official install diagram. Can someone confirm this?

Enjoy! If you are going to use this install method tell us how it went.



Cade: Thanks for the info, that'll work! ;)

[redsquirrell]

Soldering the region free points are easy as hell though.

[redsquirrell]

Soldering the region free points are easy as hell though.

[Funkwheat]

Just did this install... Success! Thanks much for the help! ;)

[Cade]

Ah great! Did you also solder the extra 4 wires for region free mode? And which set of points did you use?

[Funkwheat]

Ah great! Did you also solder the extra 4 wires for region free mode? And which set of points did you use?

Yes I did (and tested it last night with Bleach NTSC-J). I used the same ones that are listed in their official guide. They are very, very easy points anyway so it's nothing difficult.

[Cade]

Yes I did (and tested it last night with Bleach NTSC-J). I used the same ones that are listed in their official guide. They are very, very easy points anyway so it's nothing difficult.
Haha thanks, but I meant which alternative set of points did you use to solder to, since you have two choices (green and orange points on the diagram). Maybe it's easier to connect to one set of points then to the other.

[Funkwheat]

Ohhh, gotcha. Actually I mixed and matched a bit. I used the green ones for M, L, J, H, F, then used the red ones for D, E, G, C, 9, P, N, K. Went pretty smooth overall.

[wags]

The legless install for the D2pro sounds almost too good to be true. The idea of soldering onto the chip's legs seem very difficult.

There is one thing I don't quite understand. The image you posted had different letters assigned to the various points on the board, compared to the original POST off of the Console Scene forums...

http://console-scene.info/files/WIIKTUS.jpg


Any idea why these are different? :confused:

[beehoo]

this seems easyer then the normal install does it work with d2c's with legs?

[Funkwheat]

The legless install for the D2pro sounds almost too good to be true. The idea of soldering onto the chip's legs seem very difficult.

There is one thing I don't quite understand. The image you posted had different letters assigned to the various points on the board, compared to the original POST off of the Console Scene forums...

http://console-scene.info/files/WIIKTUS.jpg


Any idea why these are different? :confused:


The one you just posted is for Argon. The one Cade posted is a modified version of that, used to reflect the points on a D2Pro instead of an Argon. And no, it's not too good to be true, and works great. I've now done two. ;)


this seems easyer then the normal install does it work with d2c's with legs?

All D2C's have legs. What we mean by "legless" or "no leg" install is that it can be done without soldering to any IC legs (potential pain in the ass).

[beehoo]

lol every1 said that the legless install is way harder but from what ive seen i would say the legless 1 is easy a rookie could do it (rookie=me)

[wags]

Funkwheat, do you have any photos of your mod? Glad to hear this works and makes installation much easier.

So where do the other connections go...(4 or 5) to make it region free?

[naive1016]

Was it hard to install the d2pro. Also can you post pics so i can see how to do my friends and how hard it will look.

[wags]

Based on this Large Resolution image of the Wii-Board; can you tell me where the points are located generally on the board? I cannot seem to find them looking at the photo CADE supplied right next to this photograph of the board.

When they say "Bottom Side" of the board, does it mean the Flip side of the mainboard? Like the underside?

Thanks in advance.

[Cade]

@Wags: Yes, with bottom side they mean the underside of the mainboard, so flip it over :) ;). Only the 2 power connections and the 4 extra wires for region free mode are soldered at the top side of the mainboard. To know where the 4 extra wires need to be soldered have a look at the official install diagram on the website of D2Pro: http://www.d2pro.com.

@Funkwheat: since I don't have a lot of soldering experience, how easy is it to properly connect the wires to the solder points? Is it just a case of tinning the wires and apply a little pressure with the soldering iron on the soldering points? Do we need to tin the soldering points too? Are there any extra steps to perform? Also, how did you attach the D2Pro chip to the mainboard? A few tips would be really helpful, and indeed: a picture of your mod if possible would be really cool too. Tnx dude.

[quantronics]

Attached is an image for the install of the D2Pro chip, without any legs. This diagram includes the multi region wires and also spaces out the wires on the bottom, without showing alternates for the alternates to make it easier.

Hope this helps guys

[redsquirrell]

What wire is needed for that way of installing? do you poke the wire up under the hole? or solder onto the hole? Will 30awg work?

Cheers

[Funkwheat]

Sorry guys, I didn't take any pictures of either of the installs I did (they weren't for my Wii... My Wii is D2B). I plan on doing another install or two next week though, and will definitely try getting some pics.

But, for the record, my installs are designed to work... not to look pretty or impress anyone :P

Anyway, to answer a few of your questions... The chip goes in the middle of the Wii board just as it would normally, except you string a few of the wires underneath. The points on the board are easy to find on the underside of the board. You'll see the markings; this board isn't very big. Basically you just have to pull a few ribbon cables, remove two screws, and flip the board over and you'll see the points.

The ground, 3.3V, and region free connectors are all on the top of the board but are a LOT easier than the rest (takes less than two minutes to do all six). I did those ones last, after the chip was situated and the board was screwed back down. I wouldn't worry about those ones, as they are very easy.

Cade, to answer your question... This chip is designed to fit right in the middle of the board... You'll see the spot for it. It fits pretty well. It's real easy to lace the wires to the underside of the board. That part I wouldn't worry much about. The big thing is getting used to soldering to those little circle copper points. And no, I didn't tin the points, just the wire. I did use some flux to make it easier to stick, though. That I would definitely recommend. The best way to do it is to mix and match the different point sets. As long as you make sure you have one of each letter, it doesn't matter which set you use. Just do whatever points seem easiest for you. Note there are a few points (I think P and one other) that are only on set #1.

Let me know if there are any more questions. I'll try to get some pix next time!


Thanks

[redsquirrell]

Sorry guys, I didn't take any pictures of either of the installs I did (they weren't for my Wii... My Wii is D2B). I plan on doing another install or two next week though, and will definitely try getting some pics.

But, for the record, my installs are designed to work... not to look pretty or impress anyone :P

Anyway, to answer a few of your questions... The chip goes in the middle of the Wii board just as it would normally, except you string a few of the wires underneath. The points on the board are easy to find on the underside of the board. You'll see the markings; this board isn't very big. Basically you just have to pull a few ribbon cables, remove two screws, and flip the board over and you'll see the points.

The ground, 3.3V, and region free connectors are all on the top of the board but are a LOT easier than the rest (takes less than two minutes to do all six). I did those ones last, after the chip was situated and the board was screwed back down. I wouldn't worry about those ones, as they are very easy.

Cade, to answer your question... This chip is designed to fit right in the middle of the board... You'll see the spot for it. It fits pretty well. It's real easy to lace the wires to the underside of the board. That part I wouldn't worry much about. The big thing is getting used to soldering to those little circle copper points. And no, I didn't tin the points, just the wire. I did use some flux to make it easier to stick, though. That I would definitely recommend. The best way to do it is to mix and match the different point sets. As long as you make sure you have one of each letter, it doesn't matter which set you use. Just do whatever points seem easiest for you. Note there are a few points (I think P and one other) that are only on set #1.

Let me know if there are any more questions. I'll try to get some pix next time!

Thanks

I think

Thats cool. But did you just solder the wire directly to these points? (ive had a look at the points myself and the wire seems quite large (30awg) in comparison). Will it really get that much of a connection? I have heard you have to scratch down the points, although worried about messing something like that up.. whats the best way of removing the laquer?

[Funkwheat]

Thats cool. But did you just solder the wire directly to these points? (ive had a look at the points myself and the wire seems quite large (30awg) in comparison). Will it really get that much of a connection? I have heard you have to scratch down the points, although worried about messing something like that up.. whats the best way of removing the laquer?

I used 30awg wire for everything. I didn't have to scratch down any points.. Just used flux and 30awg and it stuck ok.

[Cade]

Cade, to answer your question... This chip is designed to fit right in the middle of the board... You'll see the spot for it. It fits pretty well...
Thanks for your excellent explaining, one other question though. I know the chip fits perfectly in the middle of the board but don't you have to secure it with something like tape or hot glue? Or does the Wii board itself holds it in place? I was curious what you used to secure it if this is necessary. Thanks again.

Face it, you're the expert now :D ;)

@quantronics: Thanks for the ultimate and complete alternate install diagram for the D2Pro. You made the installation even easier by using at least every other solder point (so there is no risk soldering points to each other). This seems like the way to install a D2Pro! Good job!

[redsquirrell]

I used 30awg wire for everything. I didn't have to scratch down any points.. Just used flux and 30awg and it stuck ok.

Wow, really? I have ordered a flibreglass pen as its supposed to clean the contacts. I was told if you didnt do this, it probably wouldnt work.

[Funkwheat]

Thanks for your excellent explaining, one other question though. I know the chip fits perfectly in the middle of the board but don't you have to secure it with something like tape or hot glue? Or does the Wii board itself holds it in place? I was curious what you used to secure it if this is necessary. Thanks again.

Face it, you're the expert now :D ;)

@quantronics: Thanks for the ultimate and complete alternate install diagram for the D2Pro. You made the installation even easier by using at least every other solder point (so there is no risk soldering points to each other). This seems like the way to install a D2Pro! Good job!

I didn't secure it with anything. Remember, this is on the bottom side of the drive, so when you put it back in it's going to be wedged between the drive and the rest of the Wii. It ain't goin' anywhere.

Wow, really? I have ordered a flibreglass pen as its supposed to clean the contacts. I was told if you didnt do this, it probably wouldnt work.


I know that was definitely the case with the PS2 because the points were very slick. But I didn't have any trouble with the Wii. Get some flux and you'll be ok.

[wags]

Guys im in the process of trying to install the d2pro via the alternate install points. This message is primarily for funkwheat, but if anyone else has some good advice; please feel free to answer.

I'm having issues soldering the wires to the small contact points on the underside of the board. They are very tiny and it's difficult for me to get the solder to fasten to the point/board. Is there a technique you used to accomplish this?

[Funkwheat]

Flux flux flux! You using any?

[wags]

Im using "Clear Flux Solder" ... Is this not what you were referring to?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049774&cp=&sr=1&origkw=flux&kw=flux&parentPage=search

Would this work?

I'm not an expert a board-soldering...can you explain to me how the flux/soldering works? Thanks much.

[wags]

I got some flux (its basically petroleum jelly/rosin mixture) ... I just don't understand how to use it, especially when it comes to soldering these small contacts...

1. Do you put solder down on the contacts, then solder to that?

2. Can you give me some general techniques that would make soldering these tiny points easier?

3. How is the flux used exactly?

[redsquirrell]

I got some flux (its basically petroleum jelly/rosin mixture) ... I just don't understand how to use it, especially when it comes to soldering these small contacts...

1. Do you put solder down on the contacts, then solder to that?

2. Can you give me some general techniques that would make soldering these tiny points easier?

3. How is the flux used exactly?

I haven't done this yet (i might try later).

But, I would say use a fibreglass pen to clear the points you are going to solder to first. Some people say you dont need too..

Anyway, use a cotten bud or something simular and dip it in the flux. Rub the flux on the point. Then get your solder wire, hold it on the point (maybe bend the end of the wire a little and try and attach it to the hole slightly).

Get your iron, get a bit of solder on it and basically place it on the wire in the via point. It should attach fine, the flux helps with the connection of the solder.

[wags]

thanks for the advice. I don't know if the fiberglass pen idea would be very helpful, since the contacts are so small.

When you decide to do it, let me know if you there is anything to make the installation easier.

From what you're saying, im guessing i have to melt the solder onto the iron; place the wire, then put the solder onto the point. I'll give it a shot.

[beehoo]

if u wanna know how 2 use the flux still just dip the solder into the flux and then melt the solder onto the board

[wags]

my problem is that the solder just doesnt want to bond to the board, or come off the iron onto the board. It just wants to stay stuck onto the hot iron.

I am using flux, but it doesnt seem to do much but sizzle. I use it on the solder itself, and the board contact.

i'm beginning to question how much easier it is to solder to these alternate points considering how little the copper contacts are.

would it be easier to melt solder directly onto the contacts, then try to solder onto those? At the rate im going, I won't be able to make these connections properly.

[redsquirrell]

my problem is that the solder just doesnt want to bond to the board, or come off the iron onto the board. It just wants to stay stuck onto the hot iron.

I am using flux, but it doesnt seem to do much but sizzle. I use it on the solder itself, and the board contact.

i'm beginning to question how much easier it is to solder to these alternate points considering how little the copper contacts are.

would it be easier to melt solder directly onto the contacts, then try to solder onto those? At the rate im going, I won't be able to make these connections properly.

Yeah, i had a go a few hours back on a drive i had that didnt work very well. Probably was a mistake, because it didnt really give me accurate results.

Anyway in my opinion, it is easily and much safer to install using this alternative method. However as you say, those holes are tiny! But after rubbing them down with the fibreglass pen, it made the holes show the copper ring around them which makes it much easier to solder too.

The first hole i tried i had a lot of difficulty getting it to stick down. I thought it wasnt going to work.. but it did eventually and the other holes were not as bad.

I basically smeared the areas with flux paste, held down my wire and placed a bit of solder on the end of the iron and dabbed it on the wire. Most where fine, a couple came loose at points but they went back on.

The wii read the backup games, but because the drive was dodgy it sometimes didnt. Im pretty sure the install went fine though. I have a brand new wii here which i want to install but im not sure i want to spend another couple of hours doing it just yet.

IMO its easier, safer and tidier to do an install using this method.

[wags]

ive been trying with no luck...

do any of you guys do custom installs? I'm getting to the point where i'd just be happy having someone better at this do it, even if it costs me.

my board basically looks just like the way it did when i opened it, so its not like i screwed anything up...

[Funkwheat]

Sorry about the late response; but yeah that RadioShack flux is exactly what I use. You don't need much.. All I do is dip the wire itself in the flux, and that's it. Also, you don't need much solder at all. And yes, the flux does sizzle.. But its job is to make the heat spread better. If you use too much, though, it sometimes has the opposite effect (since it's petroleum based, it can make it slick).

Sometimes you need to hold the iron to the point for a few seconds. It'll stick eventually though... It's a pain in the ass, but once you get used to it it isn't bad.

As far as the install goes.. Personally I do a lot.. Mostly for people locally though, I've never really done one through the mail. Problem with the D2C Wii's though is that they're such a damn pain in the ass that I have to charge kind of a lot to make it worth it. That's why I normally stick to older ones for my paid installs. There are a lot of sites that will do it, but I think it's sorta pricey.

[wags]

Thanks for all your help guys. I found a really great deal with someone not far away. The price was too good to pass up, and the guy is a real pro. He is going to do the conventional install (onto the chip).

If you need someone to install it for you let me know, i will recommend it to him. He charges about 50 for the install (if you ship the chip to him with the wii)...

In the end, this was just a bit too advanced for my soldering abilities. I would of liked to really do it myself, but felt it was just too risky trying to solder some of the real close points.

I just didn't want to ruin my wii.

I will let you fellas how the pro job turns out :)

[idog]

there is a big difference in the lacquer used.

You can have a transparant, barely noticeable (wonder if it's even there) lacquer so the via's look like copper. All you need to do is use some flux or twist a small object (knife, tiny screwdriver) in the via until you see tiny bits (dust) of copper come off. Then you can use flux if you like, or do it like me and just heat up the via itself for a second and put a bit of solder in it, so it becomes a pad.

Then you have the green lacquer. I used to scrape that, but I recently switched to using the fibreglass pen. You just use that on the via's you need to clear, brush until you see the copper. It's normal and doesn't hurt if you clear neigbouring pieces of copper, just beware that when you solder it, there are no shorts with those pieces (use a multimeter).

[redsquirrell]

Yeah I just did this alternative install on a working Wii. Its damn annoying when you get one or two points that just wont stick and keep falling off. Apart from that, all appears to be working.

Havent hooked up the region free points yet, although thats easy enough to do. Wasnt the tidiest install but not bad. Might try take some pics tommorrow.

[redsquirrell]

pics of my via points install.

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/3520/dsc02299mediumkv1.jpg

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/1183/dsc02306mediumkv1.jpg

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7434/dsc02307mediumgn1.jpg

[mcclurclur]

So I have a US wii. for the region free all I need to do besides add the wires is jumper the JP1 points? or do I do the JP1 and the JP2? Thanks

[redsquirrell]

JP1 is USA
JP2 is PAL
JP1+JP2 is Japan

So yeah bridge JP1

[wiidoit]

JP1 is USA
JP2 is PAL
JP1+JP2 is Japan

So yeah bridge JP1

why do you have to bridge the jps if you have already use the four wires for the region free, surely you leave all them jumpers open for region free with the four region wires soldered.

wiidoit

[didineedthis]

So I have a US wii. for the region free all I need to do besides add the wires is jumper the JP1 points? or do I do the JP1 and the JP2? Thanks

you do not have to close any jumpers if you want region free as long as you have installed the four extra wires for region free.


didineedthis

[Funkwheat]

uh you sure about that...?

The jumpers are there to tell the chip what type of Wii it is, so it knows what region code to patch it with.

[woodsdog]

I've installed my D2PRO last week, and I can't get it to work. I checked all of my points via a volt meter for connectivity, and everything checked out. Every boots, and runs as it should, originals work, but I can't play backups.

I've tried 3 different backups, and none of them work. I don't know if it's the way I burn them, the media I burn them on, or what is my problem. I don't know if my backups are OK either...

A few questions:

Does it matter the gauge of wire for the 3.3V? I just used 30 AWG along with all of the other points.

My wires a a little bit longer than some of the pics shown. That shouldn't matter though, should it?

Any help, suggestions, thanks.

Woody

[somegamer]

I've installed my D2PRO last week, and I can't get it to work. I checked all of my points via a volt meter for connectivity, and everything checked out. Every boots, and runs as it should, originals work, but I can't play backups.

I've tried 3 different backups, and none of them work. I don't know if it's the way I burn them, the media I burn them on, or what is my problem. I don't know if my backups are OK either...

A few questions:

Does it matter the gauge of wire for the 3.3V? I just used 30 AWG along with all of the other points.

My wires a a little bit longer than some of the pics shown. That shouldn't matter though, should it?

Any help, suggestions, thanks.

Woody

Try to use a higher gauge wire for ground at least (22 AWG). Or twist 2 pieces of 30 AWG wire together.

I have the exact opposite problem that you have.

I've done wiikeys, d2ckeys, argons and this is the first time I tried the d2pro. After the installation it won't play originals (well i only tried wii sports) all my backups work flawlessly... wierd... I didn't put in the extra wires for region free play. I'm hoping after putting those wires in it'll play originals -- maybe it's a faulty chip?

[fieldzy0]

Just finished my d2pro install the alternate way and it works perfect. The holes are very very small and when have to take your time to do this, if you are not use to soldering i would not do this. Took about 1 1/2 hours from start to finish. This is way better then trying to do the legs. I did the all region and this chip reads everything with no problem at all. Plays orginals no problem and orginal game cube no problem at all. I did no jumpers at all just the four wire and works no problem. My wires are long too with no problems. Maybe your chip is back. Get a backup from some else that you know works and try it on you machine.

[spyder79]

Is it a must to use a thicker wire to solder the 3.3V point ?

[naive1016]

What did you do if the copper isn't exposed. Did you shave it off or something to show the copper. I'm wondering if you have to do this or can you just solder onto it without showing the copper.

[redsquirrell]

the wiis with the copper already showing help you out so much.

if the copper is not showing, you need to shave them down (either fibreglass pen or gently scrape the laquer of with a knife (i do a mix between fibreglass pen and arts and craft knife).

to the person that said he installed correct but not reading backups - there was a dodgy batch of d2pros that didnt read backups when installed.. it might be worth asking whoever you bought it from (it was apparently the first batch with the update cables)

[woodsdog]

I finally got the soldering iron out again last night. I redid the ground and 3.3v wires with thicker wire. Then I tried it again, and it worked!

So i don't know if it's a must, but it helped me. Every game I tried worked except SBBB. Might have to re-burn that one.

[AcCeSsDeNiEd]

Hey, I will have some spare neoflex fpcs if anyone is interested.

PM me.

[loonmok]

hi can i use the same alternate points for the new d2pro 9 wire install. ie do the letters on the alternate install diagram correspond to the letters on the new d2pro 9 wire board?

thanks

[didineedthis]

hi can i use the same alternate points for the new d2pro 9 wire install. ie do the letters on the alternate install diagram correspond to the letters on the new d2pro 9 wire board?

thanks

try these points for the alt ics .

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk82/didineedthis/d2pro9altlh5.jpg

didineedthis

[loonmok]

to easy. thanks a lot mate

[didineedthis]

to easy. thanks a lot mate

good luck , any probs drop me a pm

didineedthis

[loonmok]

hi i have removed the two cables that connect drive to the main board. also removed the 2 screws. now there are 3 ribbon cables connected. do i just pull these out to get underneath the drive board?

[didineedthis]

hi i have removed the two cables that connect drive to the main board. also removed the 2 screws. now there are 3 ribbon cables connected. do i just pull these out to get underneath the drive board?

if you have a look at the connectors, there are small tabs in the corners either side of the ribbon , gently slide these away from the connector and then pull gently on the ribbon cable and it will come out. there is a thread with pictures here (http://forums.maxconsole.net/showthread.php?t=98600)

didineedthis

[loonmok]

thanks again. appreciate it

[didineedthis]

thanks again. appreciate it

no probs mate , be very careful with the drive cable , its easily ripped.

didineedthis