HELP ! Can Read/Write UP/PSP Flash but PSP doesn't boot !?

[automan]

Something weird...i installed everything fine and can read/write PSP onbaord AND UP flash but my PSP doesn't boot...not from onboard (L1) and not from UP.
i checked all wire connections starting from trace directly to the actel chip...
any hint ?

[scroller]

Something weird...i installed everything fine and can read/write PSP onboard AND UP flash but my PSP doesn't boot...not from onboard (L1) and not from UP.
i checked all wire connections starting from trace directly to the actel chip...
any hint ?

all you are doing that way is checking connection from the ribbon to the actel
and not connection to the main board.

the UP in theory should be able to be be flashed anyway with just the b1 b2 connections power and ground so does not confirm good connection to the main board.

i would recheck you b1 and b2 connections re solder them im unsure if the UP does any detection on boot and other than listen for b1 b2 im unsure which is for l1 ans which is for left on the dpad not come across this problem yet during install.

also a good idea is to go further up the traces and do a straight scrape across all the traces uncovering the underlying tracks and test between these and the soldered connections sometimes the flux in the solder can stick the wire pretty solid to the board with out actually soldering it.

are you definate the track is cut this would give you this error also or if the wrong track has been cut but still allow flashing.
All the best.

one thing thats pissing me off about the installs is the external fpc to usb connector it's a shite idea im thinking of just hooking it direct to the psp usb port and a adding a small dip switch to shut off the 2 data lines to the psp mainboard when i need to program. another 6 wires and 2 extra trace cuts but hey would make it much neater install and save plugging the adapter on to the flimsy ffc cable.
Scroller

[automan]

we have a lift off !!! The big problem is the fpc cable in ANY ways you can think off...the problem appears when i installed the UP and bend the fpc...i then soldered all connection points (A-P) directly from the fpc solder points to the actel pins...now it goes fine...i can flash and switch between both version easily...100 % bootrate !
the problem was that after assembling and deassembling several times the fpc wear out through bending let some tracks break in the assembly position !

the fpc is a kick in the ass and needs to better designed...
it must be designed shorter so no bending is needed...
the white thick label at the usb end will come loose after some uses and then the tracks will crack !!! So it must be glued better AND the label must be longer there so the fpc becomes more stable...

Some tips that worked well on my experience:
don't use double sided tape for the fpc as i used in my first installation coz'

If you bend it it doesn't hold in position...USE ONLY SUPER GLUE ! The fpc must hold there like a stone...Hot Glue will become loose in time

Don't secure the UP connector with hot glue use a strip of tape as sony use for another connector in the psp...

I recommend NOT to secure the solder points with hot glue as hot glue is plastic and will vapour out in time...it then becomes harder and develope tension that could lift up the wire from the track again...a repair then is near impossible..

RE-Glue the White Label on the usb Side...it is badly glued and will become loose with some use...then the tracks in the fpc will be break...
easy solution: re-glue the white sticker with Super Glue AND winding some Tape around the fpc in an inch length or so...now you can flash very often...

[cory149]

Thanks automan for sharing your results - I hadnt considered bypassing the connections of the FPC since they all tested perfect from UP to the PSP board, how did you make it all fit after you did so? Are you able to measure damaged tracks in your FPC? (ie-testing between PSP trace and asic?)


all you are doing that way is checking connection from the ribbon to the actel
and not connection to the main board.

the UP in theory should be able to be be flashed anyway with just the b1 b2 connections power and ground so does not confirm good connection to the main board.

i would recheck you b1 and b2 connections re solder them im unsure if the UP does any detection on boot and other than listen for b1 b2 im unsure which is for l1 ans which is for left on the dpad not come across this problem yet during install.

also a good idea is to go further up the traces and do a straight scrape across all the traces uncovering the underlying tracks and test between these and the soldered connections sometimes the flux in the solder can stick the wire pretty solid to the board with out actually soldering it.
I am in the same situation with my PSP after reinstalling the chip. I have checked since the first go by scraping extra points on both sides of the solder point on each trace (making sure the trace is inact and that connection all the way to the UP chip is OK). Get this: I can (now) accurately dump the PSP's flash, I can dump/write the UP flash (when the PSP doesnt shut itself off) - the PSP just wont boot (with the up sticking out the side of the PSP wrather than folded into it) and all connections are testing perfect.

B1+B2+pwr+gnd+clk isnt enough to flash the chip - the PC app does other checks to "verify the install".

The button connection in the diagram that is closest to the edge of the board is for L1, the other (which can also use the pin 2 away from L1) is for left button. In theory the installer could assign any button (heh, why didnt they use the UP button?) as they all function the same.

ps: it'd be truly awesome to have a diagram that removes the FPC from equation entirely using scrollers idea for the USB as well.

edit:/ I went through and did all the labels I could find checking from PCB to PCB (ie: PSP to UP, USB conn to UP). Let me know if anything looks wrong.

[automan]

fitting was easy as i used the same thin copper wire...
it's hard to measure damaged tracks from the fpc coz' if you lay it straitght it measures good and if you bend it you measure a fail as in my situation...even if you repair one track in a defect FPC you have no security that another track will become loose in some time ! so better is to wire up ALL points...it's easier than it sounds...

Further a solution to use the internal USB Port would be fine...can't be very hard to do...with an automically switching circuit or something...

tnx for the pic...it's good to use for every UP installer...hey that sounds c00l...UP installer...better than ps2 chipper...better than fine pitcher..we do like
a cosmetic surgeon but less money :mad:

[cory149]

What a pain, having to double wire all those points... so much for the "shock resistance" provided by the FPC; you are so right about the USB end of it, the silver on it is very fragile I cant see the traces in the FPC being any better.

Hopefully this will be the end of the problem with UP and this PSP. I will give it a go (wiring these small wires to the actel should be even simpler than doing the bios wires on a new version of PS2 side by side directly to the bios chip).

One could easily say "UP mine? NO! UP yours!" :D

edit:/ well, it worked perfectly - initially I re-routed only A-P and it had some freezing issues, but adding V25, V33, GND and CLK and now I have 100% boot up rate. Im gonna post a new thread, since I have now prooven (at least to myself) that the diagram is accurate - dubbed the Automan UP fix ;)